To grade or not

For Proof coins from 1956 (and before) up through the mid 1980s (approximate), they have to look like this to bring a premium. It's called a cameo, and it has to be on both sides to be worth the premium. Here is a 1961 Cameo Proof dime. If an old Proof coin does not look like this, it's not worth the extra money for grading fees.



After the dies were polished to be prepared for striking Proof coins, the first ten to twenty coins had the on the design devices. At those early strikes, friction from the striking process removed the frosted device effect. Sometimes a new die would be put into production paired with an older die. That is how you end up with one sided Cameo Proof coins. That side is attractive, but the coin does not get the premium price.

Today all Proof coins are made as cameo coins, so it's not worth a premium, even though the coins are marked as such.

 

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Thank you, that helps narrow it down considerably!

 

I'm a bit moody after so many days of rain here, but...how can you know it's not worth certification/grading if you don't know it's value?

 

Because the coins in question are definitely not $100+ so not worth certification and everyone is different so im not going to put an exact value.

 

Winner, winner-chicken dinner. Right answer & thanks for clarification.

 

@John Burgess's answers deserved the Best Answer click.

 

Hi Hiwatt,

yeah that's a challenge. what you can do it catalog the coins to start, if it's a mint set or proof set, and write down what it is and what it contains, then you'd research the value of the set, and then each coin individually to see if any of them have a condition rarity that gives it a higher value, and if there's a grade that's reasonably attainable that could clear the cost of the coin and fees for grading it.

if you at least catalog what you have and check what the majority of that coin grades out at at a grading co., and it's value at that grade, you have at least some sort of a valuation for what you have and that's a start. Some may disappoint, some may surprise, but you won't be flying so blind anymore and it will have organization.
Plus that research will get you more familiar with the coin series you have and your individual coins.

like a 1956 franklin half, most are going to grade out as MS64 or MS65, but you'd really need to pull MS65+ with full bell lines, and if possible a MS66 or better with full bell lines for a return on the value and sale that would justify the cost to get them graded. if it takes MS67+ Full bell lines on a franklin half dollar to hit the big bucks, but there's only ever been 3 graded at that level and none higher, the chance is slim you are sitting on one that grades MS67+ FBL, but we can dream can't we?

you'd need to learn how to grade the series, and not be optimistic and instead be critical when grading your own coins, it's always better to be pleasantly surprised than disappointed in my opinion so don't fall for the "it's not that bad" that people do to talk to themselves. LOL
if trying to grade is too much learning, you've at least narrowed it down to the few choice examples that may be worthy, at that point you could get an appraisal from a professional for just those few you are thinking of submitting, or seek opinions for free on the internet if it reaches the grade you think it might.

Some folks just say "this coin needs to be worth at least $100 over what I paid for it for it to be worth me getting it graded." some might set that line at $50, or $150. in the end, it really just needs to be worth it to you for your own reasons. I'd just say don't spend $40 to get a 1 cent valued cent graded, that's not doing it wisely, BUT people still do it.

 

'preciate ya Mountain Man! that post is best answer click all by itself to me!