Do you know if the entire series started with the same basic dies or were new dies produced each year? I ask for the following reason. My ungraded '34 shows either weakness or wear on the eagles knee and on the obverse, the knee, forearm and forehead all show either weakness in the strike or wear on the reverse. It's in a cardboard flip, marked by the prior owner as MS60. I feel it's a lower grade but now not entirely sure. Thanks in advance for the help. If needed, I can provide photos. Or point me to some documentation I should read, if it's easier.
That's a better way to ask the question. Also, on the reverse, are the forehead, knee and forearm all high points where one would be looking for circulation wear? And of equal height? Thanks for rewording Eddie.
You’re welcome, Mike. FWIW, I can’t answer your question on the highest points, I’m not that familiar with this commemorative series. But I do know the regular coinage had the dates right on the hubs, the mint marks punched after, on the dies. That I’d think would constitute the presumption at least on these. I don’t know that that helps you much, outside of I’d think it should be your starting theory.
@Mike Thornton - The forehead is a highpoint, but not the highest, so that's a pretty good indicator of some wear. My guess is it's rub on your coin, but if you can post good clear photos, we can be certain. If it turns out your coin is an AU58, IMO, you're probably better off then with an MS60.
Here's the photos. There is a small toning spot on the reverse. In hand you don't see the apparent doubling of DOLLAR on the obv.
That's wear. Along with the areas you mentioned, look at the eagle's head to the right of it's eye. Smooth as a baby's (well you know the saying). If it was weak strike, the areas wouldn't be smooth and shiny, they'd be dull and more than likely have little marks in them. Also I think I see a little bit of rub on Sam Houston's Chrome-dome. I'd go AU55 or 58. Nice coin either way. Great photos, too! EDIT: My saying 55-58 is solely based on the wear level, and not anything else (hits, etc.). Reason I say this is it looks like Liberty's left arm took a decent hit, and not sure what that dark spot on the reverse near 7 o'clock is.
Thanks for the opinion. I'm thinking the same. Getting better with the photos too. Thanks for that. Was referred to "PhotoScape" Great tool.
If this were as struck you would have toning on the high points. By the way, I like the purples and deep reds on that Texas. Even planchets have an original luster, depending on how well the coin was struck, the metal flows into the recesses of the die and still has metal movement that causes a luster of it's own. This is called Flat Strike Frost. @Insider And is a given to an MS grade when the coin is weakly struck but does not have interruptions to that luster. Your Texas if it was "as struck" would be toned on the high points because it still had luster. When It does not have luster on the high points, it is not MS. Period. Look for it. It will save you a lot of money in the long run.
Thanks for the info. The spot on the reverse is true color. The apparent toning on the obverse is a result of the lighting. In hand, it's white.