1868 Shield Nickel grade?

Discussion in 'What's it Worth' started by Hiwatt, May 14, 2021.

  1. Hiwatt

    Hiwatt Coffee break

    This is my oldest coin and I'm just starting out with grading, so I'm very interested in other opinions to see if I'm even close. To me this coin seems like a VF35 on the reverse but the obverse seems slightly better, like an XF40. If I'm right about that, the lower grade prevails? Obverse.JPG Reverse.JPG
     
  2. Avatar

    Guest User Guest



    to hide this ad.
  3. Collecting Nut

    Collecting Nut Borderline Hoarder

    Nice looking coin but you really need to get that green crud off of the coin before real and unreversable damage occurs.
     
    Randy Abercrombie and Hiwatt like this.
  4. Hiwatt

    Hiwatt Coffee break

    I read on other threads that acetone isn't recommended for a circulated coin such as this. Would hot water without any scrubbing help?
     
  5. SensibleSal66

    SensibleSal66 U.S Casual Collector / Error Collector

    I personally would leave it be . I give it a XF40 overall .
     
    Hiwatt likes this.
  6. William F

    William F Well-Known Member

    XF45 minimum IMO, very solid, problem free coin (except for the green buildup) nice pickup! :)
     
    Hiwatt likes this.
  7. Randy Abercrombie

    Randy Abercrombie Supporter! Supporter

    I think you are pretty accurate with your grading assessment. Usually folks will overgrade at first. It’s normal to feel especially partial toward your coins. I like that the date is up into the ball of the shield. I have seen that before. It’s a cool anomaly.

    As far as the green scuz…. I too would be proactive with that. Toning is expected. Green tends to be bad. Usually left over residue from early flips and if left will do permanent damage to a nice coin. Acetone won’t hurt that coin a bit, but it may help get rid of that green residue.
     
    Hiwatt likes this.
  8. eddiespin

    eddiespin Fast Eddie

    Generally-speaking, the drier you can keep the surface, the less reactive will it be to contaminants. That's where I'd think acetone would figure in. Then just keep it dry as you can. That green is there to stay, though. Best you can do is choke it off from spreading. My opinion, anyway. These days, there might be gene therapy that will work, lol.
     
    Hiwatt likes this.
  9. johnmilton

    johnmilton Well-Known Member

    It has Ch VF to EF sharpness, but the surfaces are pitted with corrosion with some of the corrosion still on the reverse. The net grade would be somewhere in the low VF to Ch Fine range.
     
    ldhair and Hiwatt like this.
  10. eddiespin

    eddiespin Fast Eddie

    It's a crusty one, but there' a lot of die wear thrown in. I give it low to middle AU. The top-of-shield strike I believe is from the die, as well. At any rate, it's on some of these '68s. It's a bumpy surface, I agree. The striations, however, aren't corrosion, and there's quite a bit of those, all over. They're from a "past-it" die, in a manner of speaking.

    Again, I'd just take good care of it. Its biggest issues of course are on the reverse. Just think arresting the development of those. Kill off whatever is there with acetone and seal it in the best you can, is how I'd be approaching it.
     
    Hiwatt likes this.
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page