Barber Halves Grade Test

OK.. So LOVE the Photograde At PCGS.. Great resource.. I am testing myself and would love to know if I am close.. as a narcissist I always think my stuff is better then it is.. (LOL because its true)... Also the 1905 has a Clip at the 4:00..
What would be the rough value and Grade,, And does the clip add or detract from the price? Thanks all..

The 1905 I grade a VG08 - VG10? Very Low Mintage.
The 1912-S I Grade a Sad G4.. Low Mintage

These were pretty easy.. The Cents are rough..












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G-4, I believe needs rims it doesn't look like there are full rims on the back looks to faded (worn down to flat) to me I would give it AG-3 (1912-S)

 

Oh Rims.. Right.. I need to pull out my book and not just go by the Photo grade..

 

Yeah..do you see how the wing almost fades into lettering with no rims on the back, this is a problem with a lot of the barbers they didn't wear very well

 

I Go

VG10 - Damaged
G4

 

sounds right.

The reverse does NOT need full rims, or it would be (in this instance) a G-6.

 

Nice.. I was close on both..
These are semi keys also.. correct? I don't collect them.. Just have them.

 

Worth = meltdown Traci

 

I agree with the OP's grades for both coins.

I disagree with AG-3 for the 12-S because primarily a coin is graded by the obverse, and the rims on the reverse won't net down the coin, in my experience, the same way had the obverse rims been that flat. Looks like a solid G-4 to me.

 

'12-S -- Pretty much agree with everybody else. G6 obverse, but the reverse drops it to a G4.

The 1905 has seven letters of LIBERTY showing. That says F12 to me, although I agree with others that it is damaged.

Caveat -- I grade coins purely for recreation.

 

I wouldn't call them Simi-Keys. You can't just look at the mintage numbers. Darn near 1/3 of Barber halves are <1,000,000 minted. I really depends on which grade you are looking for "key dates" as well.

 

no matter what it's worth, please don't melt down Traci!!! We only have one and she is quite valuable, you know!

 

Melting coins is a Sin.. Crime against humanity.. Its Like erasing history.. Scary Idea.

 

G-4 overall on the '12-S
VG-10/F-12 (borderline because of weak reverse) on the 1905-S, rim damaged.

 

I always thought the same , that a coins grade weighed heavily on the obverse , but according to ANACs 6th Edition page 28. a coin is graded to whichever side is the lowest . thus a coin with a 65 obverse and a 64 reverse would have to be graded a 64 , though I haven't checked PCGS Grading Standards , I believe them to be the same . I'm sure Doug would know because he gave me the heads up awhile back .
rzage

 

That is great info.. I see people selling coins with "Well I am no grader But...)
And then say the Obverse is MS whatever and the Reverse MS Something Else.. So I should take the lowest and Grade from that.. I always wondered.

 

According to my local dealer, both rules apply. Meaning that the lowest side generally takes the grade, but because obverses carry more weight, a nice obverse will often give it a bump.

 

I guess I was rather harsh... I have kept some Barber halves in similar condition. sorry kids. Traci

 

I guess everybody has their own way , after checking the PCGS COIN GRADING and COUNTERFEIT DETECTION , it says " in nearly all cases the obverse determines the majority, or in most cases all of the total grade ."

So I guess you have to know ANA grading , wich is coservative grading , and the grading PCGS and NGC uses , which is market grading where great color or strike can raise or lower the grade , sorry for the different information , but Treashunt and irespire are both right .
rzage

 

I had no idea that that was PCGS' official position; though I have seen a lot of slabbed coins with a big difference in wear on each side (think F-12 obverse and obvious AG reverse)...they're almost always slabbed AG-3 or maybe G-4 at best.

I think however that TPG's have it wrong with handing out FR-2 grades to coins I would (most of the time) grade low AG....FR-2 is supposed to mean a substantial amount of central detail lacking based on the original grading standard (if I recall correctly), and not just heavy wear. If a coin has most of the outline still left, it should be graded AG even if much of the periphery is gone. Seen Po-1 coins with substantial detail left also...to me that should be most of the detail gone (and the TPG's are a bit better with this; much of the time it is).