Preserving a nice coin

I've read a bunch of threads on harsh cleaning in these forums. I've tried the baking soda, hydrogen peroxide and vinegar methods. They all seem to have a use on badly corroded coins

But what do you do when confronted with corrosion on an otherwise nice coin?



Surely there is some milder way to stop the corroding on a coin like this?

 

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I think you could try Blue Ribbon, but I don't think you can get off the carbon spots. I would send to NCS if I were you. Nice coin

 

Thats a very nice IHC Charlie. What is that just below the 7?

 

The coin's not mine but I don't think it is slabbed.

http://cgi.ebay.com/1879-MS-IHC-FOUR-DIAMONDS-AWESOME-LUSTRE_W0QQitemZ220513493609QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCoins_US_Individual?hash=item3357a0e269

The developing of spots over time from unseen saliva or other causes that you describe has me worried.

In the Coin Collector's Survival Manual, Scott Travers mentions this problem. He advocates the use solvents from E&T Kointainer but offers nothing further.

What is the recommended method to avoid this? Dip in some Kointainer product and let it air dry before putting it in a holder?

Travers also quotes a study that showed all holders allow polllutants and moisture to enter.

GEEZ, is there no hope!

 

Not completely true you know.

I can assure you this is air tight. :goofer:
In reality that coin is as already noted and any attempt to remove those spots will possibly leave a mark or even worse, a pitted appearance.
Place in a 2x2 and tape up the sides with clear tape.

 

I think he's referring to a nondestructive dip. Earlier in the book he mentions denatured alchohol as safe but for some reason recommends the Kointainer chemicals when taling about preventing saliva spotting.

The Kointainer web pages are of no help in explaining what chemicals they actually offer.

So you sneezed on your raw coin. What do you do?

 

I don't know Abe.

 

I think it has already been dipped and then put into a 2x2 with cardboard dust, that got on the the coin and served as a focal point for verdigris development. Notice how each spot has a "center" where a speck in somewhat visible. When a coin is dipped ( probably toned dark or splotchy) even for a few seconds, original patina can be removed which makes the copper very reactive, much more than before the dip, so if not protected, and if the environmental conditions are poor, this will occur. The chances of preserving this coin is low. So it wouldn't be an option for purchase. If it was one inherited or turned bad under my care, I would rinse in acetone first, and then try Verdigone to reduce the scope of the damage, to where it would be acceptable for me to keep. Neither treatment should harm the coin , done properly. IMO.

Jim

 

Nothing can be done, that is the problem with problem copper.

Nothing can be done, that is the problem with problem copper.
Each and every person who ever looks at this coin will first see "the problem" and then it becomes not an otherwise nice coin.
Those of us that are fanatic about beautiful copper surfaces know all to well that a carbon spot or something just drains the beauty out of an otherwise nice piece. I'm also getting the feeling that it was dipped or somehow cleaned at some point leading to the erosion of the copper skin allowing this to happen, maybe wrong but.
If it were my piece and already slabbed by one of the big three I would sell it has soon as I could and find one without "the problems" this coin has. It just fails to satisfy and that's "what it's all about" for me anyway in regards to copper.
If not slabbed (and it was not (never) cleaned) and I wanted to keep it I would take Coin Care or Blue Ribbon put a q-tip in the bottle, take just enough to put a drop on each spot of the coin wait a bit then carefully blot it dry. That may stall the erosion for a time.
When I learned about problem coins I stopped ever even wanting to buy them almost at any price. A problem coin is a problem for everyone - nobody wants a problem coin.

 

Thanks, I think you two summed it up nicely.

So, what would you do if you sneezed over a coin?

Sorry to repeat, but I've bought 2X2s and am ready to put away some nice (to me) coins and would like to have the best odds of long term success.

Thank you all for the responses!

 

I would rinse the coin with acetone. Acetone will remove moisture as well as organic mucus. Hold the coin upright by edge, rinse with pure acetone, and hold that way until air dry ( few seconds). Same if accidentally touch surface. No rubbing with anything.

I will assume cardboard/mylar window type of 2x2. Make sure there is no visible paper dust on the inside of the mylar that will touch the coin. Static charges in dry weather makes this tough, that is why I use the mylar flips instead of cardboard (and seal the edge with a heat sealer). If you use staples, stainless steel staples are best, but if you use normal office staples, staple as far from the coin as safe, as staples can rust and carry contaminants into the mylar inside since the staple penetrates the mylar.

Your environment is such an important factor, you made need little care, or they may corrode right in front of your eyes, even in a slab. Vigilant checking is important.

Jim

 

Almost looks like the top part of a 7. Might be worth checking it out...

 

For storing I swear by Intercept Shield 2X2s , also don't forget to store in as airtight box as possible and use dessicants , I like the reusable kind that turn pink when used , then put them in an oven to dry them for reuse . Also never let your coins go more than a month without checking .
rzage

 

If you choose to use a 2x2 flip and staple the ends shut, here is test of what you've accomplished. Simply pick up any 2x2 flip, put your lips to the opening side althoug now stapled and blow. You'll see that your breath goes into that flip. So will air, gasses, moisture over time.
Seal all ends with clear tape.

 

Remember, that corrosion starts from inside the coin and works its way to the surface. The only sure way to stop the corrosion is to grind all of the damage off, then try to refinish or restore the coin. Best way is to not let it happen, a desiccant in an airtight box should do the trick. Traci

 

Thanks for the tips Jim.

I never heard of heat sealing mylar flips before!

What product is this? (Maybe Saf-T-Flips or Saflips?)

What do you use as a sealer?

I'll go with taping as JustCarl suggests with my remaining 2X2s.

Thanks to all for the advice.

 

This is the same one shown in coin supplier's, usually almost twice as high. The knob in front allows you to set the temperature, so it doesn't burn through. I have used it with mylar or non-pvc flips, but it actually will seal most plastics from thin sandwich bags to thick packing bags. You can buy bags here also if needed for other than coin applications. Comes with extra teflon and heating wires also.

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-H6152-8-22-Plastic-Sealer/dp/B0007D2COC/

Jim

 

How many years does it normally take for a coin to start to "corrode"?