Below is a list of the special designations and their requirements. BN = Brown 95% or more of the coin is brown RB = Red Brown 6% or more, but less than 94% of the coin is brown RD = Red 95% of the coin is original mint red, 5% may be brown CA = Cameo Proofs and prooflike coins, that have frosted devices and lettering that contrast with the fields. UC = Ultra Cameo Proofs and prooflike coins, that have deeply frosted devices and lettering that contrast with the fields - often called “black and white” cameos. PL = Prooflike NGC - reflectivity at 2-4 inches PCGS - reflectivity at 2 inches DPL = Deep Prooflike NGC - reflectivity at 6-8 inches PCGS - reflectivity at 4-6inches FB = Full Split Bands NGC - all 3 horizontal bands on the fasces must have clear and distinct lines PCGS - the central band on the fasces must have clear and distinct lines FBL = Full Bell Lines NGC - both the upper & lower sets of bell lines must be clear, distinct and unbroken except at the crack PCGS - the lower set of bell lines must be clear, distinct and unbroken except tat the crack SP = Specimen FH = Full Head helmet of the head must have full details FT = Full Torch NGC - both upper and lower horizontal bands must have clear and distinct lines, the vertical lines must also be clear & disitinct PCGS - upper and lower bands must have clear & distinct lines 5FS = Five Full Steps the lines of 5 steps must be clear, distinct and unbroken 6FS = Six Full Steps the lines of 6 steps must be clear, distinct and unbroken
Actually I wanted to see the whole coin, not just the reverse. I wanted to see that because of the marks I could see in the blow-ups and I wante dto see if the coin would even grade. Given the reverse, I don't think it would as it looks harshly cleaned. And no, it is definitely not FB by the standards of NGC or PCGS.
Sounds logical. I always just thought it was due to the location. I would think most coins wear at the highest points first and/or in the middle. Your explanation would sort of clarify why so many of mine have the bottom and top bands so clear and the middle appearing worn on coins that are excessively new. Not just worn but made that way. As to the Merc in question. With over 159 million made, I would really not send that one in for slabbing. To many scratches and the middle bands really are poor. How's the obverse?
I was going to click the Clinker Award button for this post but there is no button to click. I guess the Clinker award button has gone the way of the buggy whip.
GDJMSP- Thanks for that great info on standards. What does "reflectivity at 2 inches" mean? I'll post the obverse when I get home this afternoon. I swear I think my macro lens deeply magnifies things, because the coin does not look that bad even under a 30x loupe.
Wouldn't do any good even if it was still there. You see, I personally have never been eligible for TOTW or the Clinker Award and intentionally so. So you could not nominate one of my posts if you wanted to.
It means that if you held a business card up in front of a coin at a distance of 2 inches that you could read what it says on the business card in the reflection you see on the coin. In other words, you are using the coin like a mirror and the greater the distance then the greater the degree of reflectivity - thus the designations.
just a side note on PL & DPL Hello Jallengomez, For a coin to be designated PL or DPL, the entire field on both sides of the coin must have the reflectivity. If there is an area without the reflectivity on either side of the coin, then it shouldn't get the PL or DPL designation.
The coin may be FB, but will not see the inside of a graded PCGS or NGC holder do to the cleaning/damage, IMO.
In hand the coin just does not look like this. I wonder if this is the result of viewing it at what would be the equivalent of 70x magnification or so since I'm shooting about 4" from the coin with a 70mm lens and macro adapter?
Regardless of the distance or type of magnification used, that coin has been cleaned with something that leaves those scratches. Minor for sure but they are there. This coin is OK for a collection to fill a hole for a common date coin and is really in great shape except for the wear, scratches and cleaning. Not really worth sending in for a grading and slabbing that would cost more than the coin.
