I have had this for a while and keep thinking about getting it graded. What do you all think? The shield side has multiple large die cracks (at least 10 visible without magnification). Do these make this worth more? I know that minting was not as accurate then, so I'm not sure the market likes these older errors. Any thoughts on what it might grade (given the limits of the pictures)? I did the best I could with my camera since I can't seem to get a good scanned picture of any coin.
First of all it; looks polished so already it;s not good. When coins are cleaned and tampered with and polished the coin is a problem i won't put a grade on it. The details are pretty worn on the top shield the lines There's a retained die crack, because it;s going from rim to rim which is a great error ,and can fetch a nice premium even if it;s polished There are also other die cracks and breaks on the coin.the one in red is the retained one.nice find JC
goldmember, First, welcome to Coin Talk! Second, that is a nice Error coin with both Die Cracks and Die Breaks! Since the coin has seen some cleaning, it would not really be worth getting it certified and graded, unless it possibly is an "Over Date" which it doesn't appear to be. However, if you can provide some close-up pics of the Date, we might be able to determine if it is. In any case, there is a nice Die Crack slicing through the left side of the first "6" in the Date. Frank
Unfortunately I can't seem to get any better pictures. I also cannot seem to gt my scanner to turn out quality pics like other people can. I think there is a thread somewhere that has some pointers when I get some extra time. What makes you think it was cleaned? My experience in looking for cleaning is limited, but I couldn't see any signs of it. Thanks for your help!
Normally, die cracks don't add much value. They are common, and collectors don't pay a premium for them. However, extremely late die states like that do often garner a premium, even after the coin has been cleaned. Yours appears to have at least 2 retained die breaks (not retained die cracks, that's the wrong terminology). The second one I see is through D to WE.
Just want to clear things up to newbie there are retained die cracks and retained die breaks the one i posted in red is considered a pre cud retained die break the lines are much thicker then a retained die crack so it is the right terminology basically not much differance in both just a matter of opinion JC
JC, I am sorry but your terminology is incorrect! Although a Die Crack may extend from rim to rim, the Die may not have suffered a total fracture and imminent separation of the fractured piece. Once the piece totally fractures from the Die, then it becomes a Die Break. The term "Retained" only refers to a Die Break in which the Die suffered a total fracture but the fractured piece has not yet fell away from the Die. Frank
I have done plenty of research the op's coin is considered a pre cud retained die break which I have indicated in red because it;s touching the rim and the raised line is exstending to another portion of the coin and hunging another area of the rim. I ment to say pre cud retained die break but it;s still insn;t a cud that;s why it;s called pre cud retained die break that was my error. The one I indicated in red to me is a pre cud retained die break It;s the correct terminology This is considered a major die break, now if the line exstended from rim to rim and went across the center of the coin to the opposite side then it would have been a interior retainded die break which are very rare and bring a real nice premium , as I illustrated in a black line on the coin Thanks Joe
