1907 INdian head error?

I think I finally got the one I want. payed $1.90 for it.:high5:

 

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Looks like a repunched date to me. Nice!

 

How would you grade this?

Fine or extra?

 

"extra" is in no way a part of a grade for US coins. The grade assigned to the numbers 40 and 45 is 'extremely fine' - NOT 'extra fine', and it is properly abbreviated EF. This is just to let you know, so you don't sound like a noob when talking coins.

There's also a completely different grade you are missing altogether...VF, or 'very fine'.

So, we have...

fine 12
fine 15
very fine 20
very fine 25
very fine 30
very fine 35
extremely fine 40
extremely fine 45

Read through this and be patient, and you will have the grade of your coin at the end of this little exercise...

So...for fine, little hair detail will be present, and LIBERTY does not have to be completely legible, and the feather detail should show some of its intricate detail.

For very fine, all letters of LIBERTY must be visible. On VF20 some can be very weak, and on VF30 all must be strong.

For extremely fine, all diamond detail in the ribbon must be complete, LIBERTY must be strong, and only small flat spots will be visible anywhere on the coin.

So we now know that from the detail on your coin, you have a F12 coin.

 

:desk:

 

That's a nice RPD. Looks like either a Snow-4 or Snow-9. If you show a closeup of the whole date it might help determine which.

 

The 0 has signs of the re-punch too.

 

If the repunch shows at the base of the 0, I'd guess it is Snow-9.

 

NO, I believe it is a SNOW-1

 

Jessash,
I went through the Snow attribution guide for 1907, and based on the position of the RPD in the 907 and the overall position of the date--I agree, it's Snow-1. It would be good to see the detail around the 0 too, because there is supposed to be a MPD in the denticles as well--just to confirm.

Well done! :high5:

And I'd call this a "die variety" because this originated on the die during the repunching of the date and will appear on every coin made using this obverse die.

Chuck, is that correct--or problematic terminology, LOL.

 

I would, but the 0 is pretty dirty. I don't want to mess with the value as much as I can. But take my word for it, I tilted it at an angle under the light and can see the Re-punch id at the top of the 0.

 

Yes I concur it is a repunched date cool buy

JC

 

Nice find!!!!

 

Funny! If you dare to mess with a digit on a coin, you can lower the value of the coin quite a few digits!


Frank

 

No worries--I was just trying to see if I could spot the MPD in the denticles. The Snow-1 has a stray digit punched below the 0. :smile

 

Thanks!

Thanks for your help, I think I have another one, so this one might find it's way on E-Bay. Do you think there is a premium for the 7 looking more "off" than what is shown in the guide?

 

If yours is the Snow-1, the particular "look" to the 7 might be due to die state (age of die) or possibly just lighting between photos. Don't take my own word on attribution, but for $4, you could send the coin to Rick Snow for his call. I think that's pretty cheap as a definite attribution goes, and might help to sell on eBay? I've caught people making up stuff on eBay regarding Rick Snow's word on their coin, but you could include documented proof--which should give your coin visibility there.

As for premiums for a 1907 coin...there are so many varieties this year that fewer collectors are looking for a particular RPD--in contrast to the 1894/1894, 1867/67, or 1897 "1 in neck" varieties. Still, it's a nice coin--you could also find a IHC variety collector to make a trade for one you don't have? Just some ideas--good luck! :thumb:

 

Thank you very much.When you say Rick Snow, you mean the same as "Snow-1" thats the guy?

 

Yep, the guy behind the Snow # system for IHCs. I guess he's pretty much the expert on IHC varieties. PM me if you need his contact info. :thumb:

 

Sweet!

Thanks for the info.:hammer: