I hate to burst a bubble but go back to the original post as I'm thinking a 69 is virtually spotless. As you can see from the pics there are spots on the Obv and Rev. These may have also come after grading but I can see your concern in this being a 69 at this point. On a positive note, it is still a very nice looking Ike!
Thanks for your input. I dragged that coin out of the locker and it is spotted only on the plastic. Ruben
Ruben, the link to your collection is awesome. Some great pics there. The '77-D you posted, I would call MS61-MS62. As for the NGC 1972 PR69, I would have to say PR68-PR69. It's hard to say that confidently due to the quality of the picture; I mean, I can't even see if it's type 1, 2 or 3 but I can see that it is a beautiful coin. Cheers! EDIT: Urgh!! Noob mistake, I didn't notice it was a 1972-S. The type 1, 2 or 3 only exist on 1972 Philly stikes, not San Francisco.
Nothing makes me feel warmer than when all that money and time churned into making my net resources gives something to others. Enjoy. Ruben
I started copying every IKE then I said " Why not copy the whole site." So I did. Your site is super and your kids look super too. CONGRATS.
Nice Ikes Ruben. I love the reverse of the Ikes with the eagle and the Moon in the background. The detail in the eagle is awesome. Brings back memories of when the US put a man on the moon.
What is nice is that even at that bleak time we had at least a shred of optimism, largely propelled by the space program! There is a variety of Ikes that what the Lunar command module orbiting the earth. Ruben
Learn how to set the custom white balance (WB) in manual mode if your camera has it. Very easy step. Using a pure white sheet of paper, lid, or anything pure white. Set to manual mode, function, custom WB. Fill the camera's viewfinder with the white object (do not shade it) and then press set or ok button. The lens reads it and then you'll notice on the camera's display that white shows up as pure white and all colors are true after you do this step. No matter the lighting. You can have 20k blue actinics and still get true colors and pure whites as long as you tell the camera what true white is under that lighting by setting the WB. The auto WB feature on digital cameras works ok (adequate but still not right) outside. It's worthless indoors under artificial light. Be sure to change whenever the lighting changes. I do like that proof Ike. They look pretty rough circulated but the proofs are a little more pleasing.
That feature doesn't exit on my camera. I do have in the manual settings the ability to set the changes from fluerent to ididecent and sun light, but that is as far as it goes.