I'm thinking of getting a complete sba collections. Should I get pcgs pr 70 and take longer to build or go with the pr 69. In this market, I believe the pr 70 will be harder to sell. But I want 70. I want to build a reg set. What do you think?:loud::eat:
Just get them raw and forget the rest Just get them raw and forget the rest - these coins are a dime a dozen. Please don't spend large sums of money on plastic and lofty grades - you will never get your money back out of them. You can do it if you want to but the MS & Proof 69's are so common - you'ed be much better off with raw coins. Just my opin!
For me the determining factor would be how much I would expect to pay. Since I'm a collector (not an investor), anything in a common high grade (67? 68?) would satisfy me. And your terminology seems a bit off. You mention "pr" in your grades (proof?), but then you say "a reg set" which sounds like business strikes to me. Decide exactly what you want and the grades you want. Then look at your wallet. If you aim too high for the money you have you'll get bored or frustrated before you finish. When I did my Roosevelt silver dime set (1946-1964) I wanted ALL the coins. And I wanted a matched set. But above -65 the business strikes are often more expensive than the proofs in the same grade. So I decided all my business strikes would be MS-66 and all my proofs would be PR-67. And ALL coins slabbed PCGS or NGC. One coin to go.
another question. I was looking at this auction http://cgi.ebay.com/1999-P-SUSAN-B-ANTHONY-DOLLAR-NGC-MS-67-W_W0QQitemZ230327213724QQihZ013QQcategoryZ11982QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem 1999 p ms 67 w. Do you know what the w stands for thanks as for reg set, both proof and business strikes.
Do what makes you have. Some people like slabs and some people don't. If you want a PF70DC set, plan to spend so serious dough. Some of the coins you will have to spend over $2,000 to get a coin. The 1979 T-2 and 1981 T-2 and spendy coins to begin with. You can spend over $300 just getting these coins. In my set I have all PF69UC except for the 99 which is PF70UC. The set is already complete in my eyes. I will not spend the ridiculious to get the rest of the 70's
I believe the "W" stands for "White", what many people call a "blazer" or "blast white". And NGC does NOT use that designator anymore.
In 2002 NGC used the W and T on their slabs. W = White and T = Toned NGC found that people didn't care so they stopped use the designation.
Only a TPG company would use "W" to stand for some Only a TPG company would use "W" to stand for something that was only supposed to be for silver - "A White Clad coin????? - good gosh you'all they are never white they are grey, they are metallic, there shiny, their are kind of stupid looking but they are never white - come on somebody tell me that "W" did not stand for "White" please tell me it ain't so or was never so or something I beg you??? Third Party Grading Companies are a scourge on our hobby - they will in the end be as least thought of as one of the most cleaver ways ever to separate you from your money - they will fail sooner of later, they will fail and we will all look back and say "we were had" - well, it ain't gonna be me. I just wonder every time I get on the subject (which is everyday around here) , why have we let them have so much power? The only thing I can ever come up with is "people follow the path of least resistance" If we had held them to authentication only with a suggested grade according to current market conditions we would have at least kept them in check but no we see ABCD and we think it must of come from the Gods or something. Now if you think my dislike for the TPG companies is something personal or vindictive it is not. I just think that coin collectors should be the judge and learn to grade and to have, if nessary the ability to express an opinion. I firmly believe that we as collectors and dealers should view a ABCD graded coin the same way as a raw coin when they both are pushed across the table, If we don't then we have been had, hook, line and sinker. To those that get the most upset with me because of my low opinion of TPG company's ask yourself, if you believe that the TPG company's are so great you should not have to defend your love of them or your support of the same. You should be fairly content to let me have my opinion and you have yours without challenging me to my ability to grade, or that I have some hidden agenda - I do not - I just don't like to believe everything I read especially when it's 2 cent label on a 10 cent piece of plastic. If it means something to you fine, it don't to me and I want to be able to speak for many others (on here) who are reluctant to express an otherwise unpopular opinion - at least you will always get the "real deal" from me. You do not ever have to wonder about where I stand on an issue - I will always let you know. I always say "I'd pull the tail on the devil himself if I felt like it, and I would to".
I think if you don't do what you want and buy 70s, you won't be happy after it is completed. Buy what you will be happy with.
Honestly I would go for the 69s because there really isn't that much of a difference to me and it would be hard to tell to the untrained eye. The only major difference is the price. Remember that a set of 69s can look just as good as a set of 70s. As for the business strikes I would look at the price guides and make a descision on the grade you want for that coin before you start your set. You might even want to match the set like MS-67 for the business strikes and PF-69DC for the proofs. I'm working on a set of state quarters with the grading like that. In the end it is up to you. Good Luck with whatever you try and do. Nickeldude
I'd say spend the money and get those coins in higher grade and slowly build the rest over time. Really those are the only cool coins in that set (imho).
