Rusty '43s

The only thing I can think of is pitting if you do it on hopelessly corroded coins and at that point it might be worth it. Is that what you are referring to? I have never seen any negative effects.

 

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No No!!! Stop --- STOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOP

Your killing me here.... Killing me!!!

Do you hear that...

:crying:

 

Disclaimer: Don't drink the water during or after.

 

Haha sorry. Do it at your own risk.

 

What will the acid do to it? And the salt- you would only use this technique on an already corroded coin. Baking soda I agree is bad for the coin, but if you don't use it, the reaction continues. I don't advocate electrolysis, I was merely laying out a process through which it could be acheived if one wishes to try it out. Rusty 1943 cents aren't worth very much anyway. However, if you are going to try it, I would recommend practicing on coins with even less value.

 

Well I have cleaned 10 rusty 43s in vinegar. the first five got a 3 hour soak and the last five got a 15 hour soak. I will post pictures but it may take some time to upload them all.

Here is #1
Before:


And After:


Some of the spots that still look like rust are actually pitting in the surface of the coin. There is zero visible rust on this coin.

 

#2
Before:



After:

 

I will post more photos later.

I should mention that the rust didn't just come off with vinegar alone. It had to be scrubbed off. I used a toothpick soaked in water (to make it softer) and a very soft old toothbrush.

When viewed under a microscope, there are no visible marks from either the toothpick or toothbrush.

 

All so true. Or almost. Note that common salt is NaCl and the Cl does in fact react with Gold to form AuCl3. Not easily but it does react. Gold also combines with salts of Fluorine, Cyanide, etc. Althogh Gold is not very reactive, it still is not inert.
As to those 43 cents. I too have experimented with them. And as already noted the outer layer of Zinc when gone exposes the Steel inside. The rust is Iron Oxide and even if removed, as in the photos posted, there are those nicely damaged marks. The steel used back then was of a very reactive with Oxygen type and as fast as you clean off the Rust, it will start to reappear even faster unless it is placed in an Oxygen free invironment. Coating with any type of oil will also slow down the process however, remember that even oils can absorb Oxygen and that will still react with the coins.
The rate of Rusting is pending on the amount of Oxygen present as well as the temperatures. There is more than one type of Iron Rust and some are easily removed and others not so easy.
The main thing is since there are so many millions of those coins around, why not just acquire the ones without the rust?

 

So what is now missing is the Lettuse, a touch of Onion and Bacon Bits. You now have a 1943 Steel Cent salad. Eating this will in fact get rid of the rust on those coins due to the Bile, which is an acid. Other secretions may well help coat what is left, maybe. After the removal, in a hospital, those coins should look like new, or not be there at all.

 

I like to collect all forms of the 1943s. For some reason they really intrigue me. The object of this post was to figure out some way to preserve the RUSTY ones.

I hope that I can remove the rust (to prevent further damage) and keep the coins in a VERY DRY environment. This way I might preserve more for future generations. In addition to that, it is just fun to try these experiments and see what the coins look like without the rust.:smile

 

Not meaning to bore anyone but a few more things to consider. For one thing there is no standard type of Vinegar. The items you purchase in a store called Vinegar is a solution of Water (H OH) and Acetic Acid (CH3COOH). The amount varies by anywhere from 4 to 8 % by volume and may vary even more if not sold as a food product. This would mean the results of such experiments may also vary and if the Acetic Acid is strong enough, the coins may well get more than you bargain for.
To carry this further you must realize there is Fe2O3 (Magnetite) & Fe3O4 (Hermatite) let alone the many other possible compounds pending on where that coin has been. An example is FeCl3.
The idea here is to remove the contaminate from the coins and unfortunately, the process would start again. The removal of the rust on such coins would have no monitary effect since those are usually sold for about $1 in Uncirc grades at coin shows. Many of the rusted ones are sold at flea markets for less than $0.25. Pending on how much time, materials, gas for you car to purchase those products to remove the rust you now have a multi dollar coin worth about $0.10 or less.
Of course it was fun attempting though.

 

The coins may look new but what would happen to me?

The older I get the rustier I feel (maybe that is why I identify with these coins).

 

I have only used coins that cost me little or nothing. And I took the white vinegar off the cupbord shelf. So the cost was very low. However, if I start buying rust remover from Autozone at $20 a gallon. . . shoot me.

 

Now you really gave me an idea. I think the next time I play around with a rusted 43 cent, I'll try Omega 3 Fish Oil. Supposed to work on us so why not our money?

 

What's next? A steroid controversy in numismatics? With a little help from drugs can a 1909 vdb become a 1909s vdb?