How to get this gunk off

Thanks I'll get some acetone as soon as I can. Would that be alright if I soaked it in olive oil until I can get ahold of some?

 

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I dont see the benefit, but I also see no harm.

 

Well I would do it so if I can't get acetone for awhile then there's a chance it would loosen it up after a few days.

 

Wal-Mart, target, walgreens, etc. sells acetone. :smile

 

OK I'll see if I can get some today. It's 35 below zero so I'm going to go through some rolls and maybe I can get some on the way back from the bank.

 

Very clever indeed, Garret. And superb advice and instruction, right down to the warnings.

 

Thanks. I do it to 1976 quarters I find that have PVC on them. Not much else though.

To me removing PVC with acetone is not cleaning, it is "preserving".

And BTW olive oil has no cleaning ability with PVC. It is the friction that removes it once you take it out and scrub it. Water has the same cleaning properties as olive oil. :rolling:

 

Look up the product "Verdigone" on Collectors Society. It is a good product for this type of problem. "Bad Thad" sells it and he is a chemist. You could soak in olive oil for a short period (be careful it goes rancid), and then switch to mineral oil but this could take a year. Doug has suggesstion Biox from the website "dirtyoldcoins.com", but I haven't tried it. Acetone will help a little, but that verdigris is pretty thick. Hot water is better if distilled (I personally would never use tap water). You'd be suprised what distilled water soak for a long time (weeks) would do. Let us know what you do and post after photos. I am very curious what you try. Good luck

 

Sounds iffy to me. I am guessing a mix between acetone, and hydrogen peroxide. An acetone bass with hydrogen peroxide for excessive oxygen levels to flake off the verdigris then the acetone disolves and neutralizes it?
Don't take anything I just said for fact as I am just a 13 year old that has spare time.

Disclaimer: Do not try to mix hydrogen peroxide with acetone as it may be harmful to your well being. I am not responsible for your actions.

 

I think that Thads Verdigone is an excellent addition to conservation ( which I consider it) when it is used as directed . However neither it or acetone can repair the damage done and lurking beneath the surface gunk. Acetone is realtively cheap at Wal Mart and can dissolve most organic ( non annealed ) deposits. Verdigone will slowly and gradually remove most copper corrosion products, but not organic or annealed organic "carbon spots". It is much more expensive due to its composition. The Man 12 might spend more on chemicals for the coin ( 1880 VF Numismedia $9) and still have an ugly corroded coin than buying a better appearing one. Carbon spots are still here to stay.

If it was a more expensive coin or a lesser damaged one, that would be OK to try, but Verdigone solution is limited chemically by the amount of corrosion products it can remove and multiple changes of solution would be required to get a near end point and it is almost a certainty that there is serious damage beneath that green gunk.

Put it aside and buy a nice one IMO.

Jim

 

True. But I always have acetone laying around so it works for me.

 

I usually only buy coins in substantial amounts once a month at coin shows and the dealer around me has really overpriced IHCs. I would rather have a damaged coin with nice details for $1 than pay $9, or whatever they're going for, for a problem free example. I'm really not that into IHCs anyway. I just bought it because it was cheap. I'd rather try to get some of that stuff off it.

 

BTW is acetone harmful to skin to touch it? I have used it before and have tried to avoid coming in contact with it.

 

I hope you know hearing that makes a lot of us older folk here sick. Take that as a compliment.

OK...may be barking up the wrong tree, here (that is to say, thinking I can contribute), but, take this for whatever sense it may or may not make to you. I've often heard it said, olive oil is a "mild acid." That's actually a pretty "generous," if you will, statement. That's why, for example, we add vinegar to it, when we make salad dressings. The pH of all cooking oils, in fact, is actually closer to a base, than they are an acid. In fact, that's why, go to the supermarket, and you won't find any fresh-cut vegetables packed in pure cooking oil. Rather, you'll find some acid added (lemon, lime, vinegar, etc.), every time. The reason for that is what's relevant to the discussion, here. Let me put it this way. Are you aware bacterium has been found in...yes, you guessed it...dirt? Even the deadly botulism strain. It's true. And, it grows, breeds, thrives in what's called, "anaerobic" (i.e., oxygen-deprived) conditions. That's why the pH of said food products has to be brought up to a safe level (the FDA recommendation being, a pH of 4.6), which is done through the addition of that acid.

Now, consider it. Microbiologically, what other such contaminants do you suppose are in that dirt sitting on our coins, soaking in that oil...week after week, sometimes, month after month...which, if the contaminants could speak, are likely saying, "Thanks very much for this opportunity to multiply?" That's why long-term soaks in any oil, IMHO, should be avoided. Until we know more, anyway. One, of course, can't expect to see the effects on the coins, immediately. But, this may also explain why, after a number of years, some coins...just from having been long-term soaked in supposedly "inert" oils...show "phony," if not, "worked-on” (and why, even dealers, at times, are apt to admit that caveat).

Again, just FWIW...

PS: BTW, just want to explain, I color my hair gray. Friends of mine have often asked me why, as that does seem a little backwards. I explain it, thusly. You see, before, I never used to get any respect. Now, however, people see those flashes of gray, and it’s like I can hear them thinking: "He must know sumpthin', he’s been around for soooooooooo long!"...

 

TM12,
Acetone generally is considered to evaporate on the skin surface faster than absorption into the underlying tissue and circulatory system. This does not include immersion of body parts or accidental consumption which should be strongly avoided. But to just reach into a solution to pick out a coin, or hold while rinsing with acetone will mainly just take the oils from the outer surface of your skin. If your skin is old to start with, use some lotion or something After playing with your coins.

The biggest hazard, as has been mentioned many times is that it is very flammable!!
DO not use in an enclosed area, for breathing as well as fire prevention.

I have a large container outside in a hazard box, and only a 4 oz bottle inside.

Jim

 

Can you remove a coin from it yes. Can you bath in it, no.
BTW acetone will remove the finish off cabinets, paint, and melt plastic so be careful.

 

If you wear contact lens, it would be smart to wear safety goggles using acetone or any chemical that might splash or be carried to the eyes.

Jim

 

I would not use olive oil at this point. Give it a few acetone baths first and use fresh acetone each time and see what you have. Don't rub it or scrub it, just let the acetone do it's thing. I'm not a big fan of using water as the final bath. Alcohol or acetone are a better choice.

 

I have rubbing alcohol. Would that help or not?