Any Mercury Dime specialist out there?

I inherited 150 Mercury Dimes in a large collection and I am not certain they are real.

 

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The ones you posted im pretty sure there real very common year for the mercs go through them by date and mm then tell us what you have if you got that many.

 

They aren't that rare, why wouldn't they be real? Weight should indicate if they are real or not.

 

The key and simi key dates are the 1916D,1921,1921D,1925D,1926S,1931D,1942/41 P/D mints.

 

I at leased have every date and mint mark (three rolls from 1955) . They just don't have that silver sound when they are dropped. Took one for the team and acid tested / cut the leased favorable acid didn't change colors and it is not laminated.

 

Uh...explanation

 

Can you take pictures of some more?are they in an album or did you just get them?that also^

 

90% are full bands

 

I sold one on E-Bay and the guy swears it was a fake.

 

Nope can really determine full bands unless it gets certified get that 1916 D certified!! I feel suspicious about the dark color in the background/field of that 1916 D if it is real its worth a few $1,000 dollars or more

 

they all look fake/master copies separate them don't keep them like that do you have a coin place near by?get them checked out by a knowledgeable person.

 

My camera is really cheap. I wish I could take pics through my stereoscope, they are really nice through it.

 

One of them says, "In COD we trust". He must like fish. Also the first one in the OP just looks bad.

 

OOOOh Mercs ! Yeah, one say In CoD We Trust , or is it me ? Need better pics though , sorry .

 

Doesn't know if they are real but can identify full bands.... ok sure.

Your pictures are too blury but the 1916 D i am certain is fake. The D mintmark on the reverse is completely wrong. And can be easily seen even with it being so blury. Its the same as the decent made fake ones you can buy off etsy for about $16 nowadays. Good enough to fool the unknowing but won't get past anyone that knows what to look for or even a moderate collector that doesnt want to get scammed on a big purchase. It's an easy diagnostic.

The common ones might be real and then whoever it came from used fakes to complete it for the tougher more expensive dates. You should hold the whole thing suspect as fake though until you sort it all out, the real from the fakes. One suspect coin, determined fake will damage your reputation if you try to pass it off as real. Even unknowingly.

 

I agree as well .

 

Drop testing collectible silver coins is like using a wire brush to clean bird dew from your Corvette hood

 

Try a local coin shop. Maybe they can help

 

There's a problem with using a wire brush????? what about comet or a brillo pad?

 

The odds of that 1916-D being real is very low. If you habe more than one 1916-D, then assume the whole batch is fake