PVC removal.

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by bruthajoe, Oct 20, 2020.

  1. Mountain Man

    Mountain Man Well-Known Member

    It can cause bram dramage too. LOL
     
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  3. bruthajoe

    bruthajoe Still Recovering

    Yip me too. I used nitrile. They didn't melt that fast and gave sufficient warning.
     
  4. bruthajoe

    bruthajoe Still Recovering

    I did the same thing with ammonia and bleach when I worked at the bakery. I was 16
     
  5. SensibleSal66

    SensibleSal66 U.S Casual Collector / Error Collector

    lab Grade ? No thank you
     
  6. Mainebill

    Mainebill Bethany Danielle

    Latex gloves don’t melt with acetone. I use them with working with it. For coins I just use my fingers though. I use acetone usually for removal of finish paint and glue
     
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  7. bruthajoe

    bruthajoe Still Recovering

    Sharing is caring...
    I thought acetone melted all rubber based products. I had to dive deeper...
    Most gloves used with liquid solvents have a permeation factor, which means the solvent slowly seeps through the glove to your skin. While the glove may initially protect you, it won't offer good protection with increased exposure to a solvent like acetone.


    Nitrile, an organic compound, is a fairly common glove material because it does not produce the same allergic response. With a four-minute breakthrough when used with acetone, it is not as safe an option as gloves made from butyl rubber.
    While neoprene demonstrates some resistance to acetone, it is not as good as either butyl or latex.
     
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  8. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    AFAIK the stripper (which I have used) also contained methanol and sodium hydroxide and perhaps ethyl cellosolve. Yum!
     
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  9. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    Close, the HCl comes from the decomposition of the PVC, but the plasticizer acts as a solvent to hold it close to the coin.
     
  10. Mainebill

    Mainebill Bethany Danielle

    Not usually lye. (Sodium hydroxide). Though I use that a lot. But it’s foul stuff
     
  11. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    The stuff I have used, you paint it on and wait...the paint bubbles up and you can wipe it off with a cloth!
     
  12. Mainebill

    Mainebill Bethany Danielle

    Same or scrape it off. Or scrub it with steel wool. I’ll look tomorrow at the ingredients
     
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  13. bruthajoe

    bruthajoe Still Recovering

  14. bruthajoe

    bruthajoe Still Recovering

    I own an old house...I'm dead.
     
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  15. -jeffB

    -jeffB Greshams LEO Supporter

    Reminds me of the time (in the last 10 years or so) that I was shopping at our OLD OLD downtown hardware store, digging around at the back of a shelf, and found a can of honest-to-goodness asbestos furnace cement. I bought it for a friend who drives a restored Stanley Steamer.
     
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  16. bruthajoe

    bruthajoe Still Recovering

    Good stuff. I believe they still use asbestos in commercial brake pads or at least they did for a long time after the hazards were acknowledged.
     
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  17. TheFinn

    TheFinn Well-Known Member

    Yep. I like chloroform actually better. Just handle with care. Anything you buy from Home Depot is not pure enough.
     
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  18. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

  19. -jeffB

    -jeffB Greshams LEO Supporter

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  20. Kentucky

    Kentucky Supporter! Supporter

    Yeah, their 100% claim is of course bogus, but the main contaminant is water in most brands of acetone (except fingernail polish remover)
     
  21. Scuba4fun777

    Scuba4fun777 Well-Known Member

    Generally, the stuff you buy at the hardware store was made the same way the lab grade reagents are made. Usually, the only difference is to what degree it is handled and tested after it was manufactured. More often than not, most unopened solvents from the hardware store would pass most - if not all - ACS/Reagent grade specs.
    So, if you’re conserving some nicer stuff from your LCS’ coin bowl, the hardware store juice will suffice. If you’re working with a better coin, send it to a TPG for conservation. If you still want to try to conserve a higher-end coin yourself, pay the extra money for at least a food/pharma grade (FCC, USP or NF) or even the ACS/Reagent grade.
     
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