1928 peace dollar

is this coin good to bid on?

 

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pass

 

oh hale king spock

 

looks pretty beat up.

 

If you can get it for $9 and plan on using it for Jewelery, then sure, go for it. Otherwise, pass.

 

but that's a key date right?

 

I'd pass too and I LOVE key dates

 

I'd pass too, I'd rather have a more worn problem free example than a less worn problem coin.

 

well it's a good thing it's soo cheap

 

What do you think ? When you look at it, what's the first thing that goes through your mind ?

I gotta be honest. When I first looked at it, I was very turned off. All that stuff on Liberty's face... it almost looks violent.

 

Sure, it's a tougher date. And some folks have so much "closure drive" that they just have to fill that hole.

This coin is a filler.

For me, I have less "closure drive" than before. I just like a nice-looking coin. But that's just me.

Others are different, and that's cool.

 

I would pass on thet one she looks like she has a very bad case of acne on her face and neck I would buy it if they include some medicine for her acne other wise a pass job.
Jazz coins Joe

 

The problem with coins like this is they are hard to move IMHO. Down the road when you look at your Peace Dollar set you will probably think of this coin as an eyesore and upgrade. But, you might have a hard time selling this piece if you chose to because it is so problematic. Lower grade but problem free coins are the way to go if you're on a budget. They move much easier so they can be upgraded with less trouble...and they are much more attractive IMHO.

 

What you say is true. However, I don't like fillers and I don't like to upgrade. If I can't afford a coin I want I will do without it and save for it. Twice I have bought coins that were not as good as I thought they were and as long as they were part of my collection I felt it ruined the whole thing. I try to pick the overall grades I can afford before I ever start. I guess get a value list before the coins is very important to me. If you are buying as a collector, buy one you'll want to keep or wait. A better price will come along/you'll have more funds/ or both.

 

I haven't upgraded much in my collection either...I tend to buy what I like or do without until I can afford it. But, if you're looking for a filler...I don't think this coin is it. I think problem coins are terrible for fillers. That's sort of the thought I was trying to convey.

 

I guess it's cheap for a reason! That coin is so badly pockmarked I wouldn't want it near my other coins in case the pox is contagious! Seriously, though, I would also be concerned it may be a fake, with the damage applied as a distraction.

 

don't touch it even with a ten foot pole. I'd pass on it.

 

Do you guys think its even authentic? it looks "funny" to me. I find it interesting that the "pock" marks are generally only on the devices.

 

I don't see anything that jumps out to me that says it's a counterfeit...but the pics are also small, so who knows. I doesn't look cast. But, I'm not going to guarantee it's authentic.

 

[FONT=arial,helvetica][FONT=arial,helvetica][FONT=arial,helvetica]Spark-Erosion Counterfeits[/FONT]
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[FONT=arial,helvetica]"Spark-erosion counterfeits are quite easy to detect because of the way in which they are manufactured. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial,helvetica]In the spark-erosion process, a model coin (usually genuine) is submersed in an electrolytic bath where the coin faces the counterfeiter's die steel. An electrical current is charged through the coin so that a spark jumps across the shortest gap between the coin and the die, thus etching the coin's design onto the steel die. [/FONT]
[FONT=arial,helvetica]After both the obverse and reverse have undergone the electrical current process, the dies are highly polished. This is necessary because once the dies have been etched, they remain somewhat pitted. The polishing generally will clean up the fields, but often the design will retain the pitting, since counterfeiters tend not to polish the main devices. Either they are unable to get down into the design, or for time's sake they choose to leave the design elements alone. In either case, these counterfeits are easy to detect, since their surfaces are glassy smooth-resembling a Proof finish-yet their devices are lumpy (remember, the pitting on the dies becomes raised lumps on the finished product). Because the excessive polishing makes the dies sharp, these counterfeits appear to be extremely well-struck, with knifelike edges and rims."[/FONT]


[FONT=arial,helvetica]I'm not saying the coin is fake, but it tends to sort of match this description from the PCGS counterfeit guide.
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