There is indeed. actually, one more counting the shell gun cent. I don't see that point to that though, as long as you have the coin, who cares about metal content, or silly details like "FS" on a Jefferson. stainless
It probably is a bit anal, but I personally consider any design change or alteration, or any metal content change as a type change. I don't call a moved mint mark as a change as it is (was) added separate from the design, but the addition or removal or moving of the designer's initials are a change in the design, however small, otherwise the V.D.B. cents wouldn't be such a big deal. You say "... who cares about metal content ..." but in the matter of small cents, I'm sure you consider the 1943 cent to be different, so why not changes from brass to bronze? Not to mention the copper coated zinc cents. And, certainly, the Civil War era IHCs are a different (metal composition) type.
Oh yeah that's ok..I'm talking the silver clad types really. Collect all of them and you really have half of your 20th type set filled with Kennedys and Ike's. BUt I do agree with you on the Brass, to copper, to zinc thing. stainless
I eliminated that confusion with my type set by only collecting business strikes specifically made for circulation. That eliminates proofs and special mint sets, leaving you with four quarters, four Kennedy and two Ikes.
and THIS is the great fun of type sets!!! No one is wrong! You can shape your type set as you wish and individualize it to suit your interests. When I started back into collecting a few years ago, my goal was to put together a 20th century type set of key date coins in MS. BOY! Was I dreaming!!! What actually happened was 2 sets, one key date, and one MS. The key date set is really quite special, from a 1927-S Standing Liberty Quarter, to a 1921-D Walking Liberty Half, my zinc-coated Lincoln is a 1995 Double Die, my with-FS Jefferson is a 1997-P Botanic Garden Nickel, etc. By collecting by type, I found that I learned about each series as I collected, and because I was studying many series, I developed a really well-rounded knowledge of coins. I learned what coins are truly rare finds in MS , and how to distinguish the real original MS pieces from the "refreshed" ones. I don't know if I would have learned as much or about as many series had I collected a single series of coins, and it has been the variety of this collecting that has kept me inthralled ever since. I believe that it was that general knowledge of coins that led to my being offered a part-time job at the coin shop here in town, where it has exposed me to even more coins, and given me more to learn. All because of a 20th century type set I started years ago...
Stainless , so you guys live close to each other cool , great to have a friend to help each other out . rzage:kewl:
yes we live real close about a half a mile apart and we bowl on the same leauge we're brothers till the end ya feel me
Everyone has there own outlook on thing's. But to me a type set is a personal choice "everyone has a chosen way of finishing there set" and how many coins will be in that set. That's the beauty of it all .See if you ask me type sets are awesome because everyone can find one to suite there taste. Thats why there the perfect thing for all who love coins. From the one's who are first starting out, to the ones who have been at it so lone they could not begin to tell you there story. So if you are not working on a "type set" or don't have one, do yourself a favor and get one!
Not nessecarily. Some just may not like to do a type set, and find a collection of just one type of coinage more interesting. By your philosophy, I could say that if you don't collect ancients then you need to do it right now. It's just a matter of opinion stainles
You know what's scary? There are more coins in the 21st century typeset than there are in the 20th. 60+ quarters, 40+ base metal dollars, six nickels, six pennies, a half and a dime.
ericl., that is scary. How about a type set of only keys,09Svdbcent, 1916-D dime, 1916 SLQ, 1901S barber quarter, you get the picture. Can you imagine the value of such a set?
I gave that some thought, I figured that you could put together a $10,000,000 set if you loaded it up with super high grade keys Here's my business strike only list. 20th century: 1c: Indian: 1909-S $8,000 in MS66 VDB: 1909 -VDB $6,000 MS65RD Plain Wheat: 1914-D $25,000 in MS65RD VDB on Shoulder: 1919-S $25,000 in MS65RD Steel: 1943 $1,000 in MS66 Memorial: 1969 $3,000 in MS67RD So that's $68k spent on 6c 5c: Liberty: 1912-S in MS65 $7,000 Buffalo T1: 1913-S $1,000 in 65 Buffalo T2: 1918-S $30,000 in 65 Jefferson: 1938-S $10,000 in MS67FS Jefferson Silver: 1942-P $2,000 in MS67FS $50,000 Nickels 10c: Barber Dime: 1904-S $10,000 in MS66 Mercury Dime: 1916-D in MS65FB $50,000 Roosevelt Dime: 1951-S in MS68 $5,000 $65,000 in dimes Quarters:+ Barber: 1901-S $50,000 in MS65 Standing Liberty Type 1: 1916 in MS67FH $75,000 Standing Liberty Type 2: 1927-S in MS67FH $150,000 Washington: 1932-D $80,000 in MS66 $355,000 in Quarters! Wow! Halves: Barber: 1904-S $40,000 in MS65 Walker: 1921-S $150,000 in MS66 Franklin: 1959 $4,500 in MS66FBL $194,500 in Halves Dollars: Morgan: 1904-S $27,500 in MS66 Peace: 1924-S $50,000 in MS67 Ike: 1978-D $4,000 in MS67\ SBA: 1981-D $350 in MS67 Sacagawea: 2005-D $1,000 in MS68 $82,850 in Dollars. $815,350 and we haven't bought a single grain of gold yet. Gold Coins: $2.50 Coronet: Common date about $10,000 in MS66 $2.50 Indian: 1911-D in MS65 $100,000 $110,000 for $2.50 $5.00 Coronet: 1904-S for $15,000 in MS64 $5.00 Indian: 1909-O $150,000 in MS64 $165,000 on $5.00 gold $10 Coronet: 1908-S $5,000 in MS63 $10 Liberty: 1933 in MS66, $1,000,000 $1,005,000 on $10 gold $20 Coronet: 1905 $50,000 in MS65 $20 High Relief: 1907 Flat rim $100,000 $20 No Motto: 1908-D $40,000 $20 motto: 1933 $8,000,000 $8,190,000 on $20 gold Yeah, you could break $10 Million on a 20th century type set I bet Granted I was lazy and priced the coins by looking at trends... but I think I am in the same remote ballpark.