Au-63 Barber Quarter

I understand the philosophy that you are talking about, but I think it is more of an investment strategy. Imagine that a collector has a coin budget of $1,000 per year. Under the expert plan, they should buy one $1,000 coin. Another collector has a $20,000 per year budget. He is not allowed to buy 20 $1,000 coins under the expert plan, he has to buy one $20,000 coin. This is all well and good for investment purposes, but if everyone who collected coins only bought 1 coin per year, how would the market continue? How would anyone remain interested in the hobby? It simply is not a realistic strategy for coin collecting; it takes away all of the fun.

 

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well i have always bought coins like that and GD has also bought coins like that now do you think we have lost the interest in the hobby. i have never seen hobo buy a dud either its not about spending all your money on one coin its about doing research finding the right coin and knowing how much that coin costs and then saving for it it might take you 3 years to buy that coin or you might get in 3 days depending on your income here is where another key ingridient comes in patience. i know many people on this forum who are great but they shortchange themselves coz they are not patient and when they ask me for advise thats what i tell them unless you know you wont ever have the budget for a coin dont compromise you will regret later.

 

Doug says he doesn't collect coins anymore, so yes, I would call that loss of interest. You don't need to preach patience to me, I play poker. I will tell you that every winning poker player has patience. I do not support buying duds, but there are quality coins in every price range. You certainly do not have to save for 3 years to make a coin purchase. I purchase coins based on eye appeal. If the coin talks to me, I try to get it. Personally, I don't regret any coin I have purchased. The duds that have passed through my hands have provided me with a valuable lesson. However, I try very hard not to have to learn the same lesson over and over again.

 

i am not preaching anthing to you. i just have to make sure that people who come to me for coin advice dont get caught into this au concept. i dont agree with it and i am not going to tell people to follow something i dont agree with. a nd if you buy quality coins you will know that peope wait 3 years and are lucky if that get their coin int hat time frame. great coins are not available on the street for anyone to go and just buy them.

 

Sounds like preaching to me dude. With regards to your three year rule, it is insane. There are phenomenal coins offered in every Heritage Signature sale every few months. Maybe some of the ultra rarities are only available every 3-5 years, but very few members of this forum will ever have the opportunity or means to buy one of the coins you are talking about.

Are you insinuating that I don't buy quality coins because I don't wait three years? What is with this coin snobbery! The rest of us are not real collectors because we don't follow your rules for coin collecting. Your rules are boring and completely unrealistic. The rules you keep referring to are an investment strategy and are meant to maximize profit upon sale or death. They have nothing at all to do with the enjoyment of the hobby.

 

i never said 3 years was a rule either you dont understand what i am saying or you understand and want to twist things around. anyways the argument is pointless and so is the name calling if you cant discuss ideas with me then i suggest you give my posts a skip. as far as boring goes i will let the members decide what is boring and what is not.

 

What name calling? And arguments are never pointless, that is how we resolve differences.

 

Fight Fight!

Fight! Fight! Drop the Gloves!

 

Spock! This is not Logical! The difference between AU and MS is with wear in minor points while strike and luster cn make many AU coins far better in terms of eye apeal than a large number of MS coins. The MS designation is really very faulty because the emphaisis is not on coin QUALITY but Circulation and non-circulating as defenined by theoretical wear. So a dozen bag hits a sliders are good to go but the slightest hint of wear on a high point - boom - your history.

But for a savory collecter, the focus on MS designation is a buying oppurtinity because a SLQ Type one FH in AU58 can have much great eye apear than a MS64, and yet be almost $1,000 cheaper.

Ruben

 

There are quality coins in every price range

Hello Rzage,

The Heritage auction ended December 6. Did you get the coin or are you still looking?

Very best regards,
collect89

 

I believe you mean AU 53, not AU 63 which is impossible.

 

AU63 is a popular term used here on CT. It refers to a "theoretical grade" where a AU coin displays nice eye appeal that it is actually more attractive than most MS coins. If you look at many low grade MS coins they can be covered in bag marks. Yet, some AU coins (which do have a touch of wear) may technically grade lower but be mark free and have much better eye appeal than a marked up MS. So, that's what the OP means by AU63.

See this this thread here...I guess the original term coined was "AU64:"
http://www.cointalk.org/showthread.php?t=41621

 

It seems this argument, I mean discussion, relates to the future saleability of one's collection. Personally, I am collecting coins I enjoy looking at. I have several that are AU and a few XF simply because the amount of actual wear in minimal and they are great looking coins. I also have a few that are in the MS grades that have nicks and dings, especially on the rims, but still look great. I really couldn't care less that your toned MS65 is technically "better" than my AU55 with full luster. I buy what I can afford regardless of the grade. Some of you who are so hung up on MS nevertheless are quite happy to get a large cent or half cent in AG, just to fill a hole. If it suits your needs then okay. As far as buying with a budget, I'll take a dozen AU55s over one MS66 of equal value any day. I'll fill 12 holes while you fill one hole and look at 11 empty ones.

 

I think you sum it up well. What you rather have...an AU58 with great luster and minimal marks but a touch of wear or an MS60 that has no wear but is all bagged marked up. Yes, the MS60 is technically better and worth more...but I'd rather have the AU58. It has better eye appeal and that's where it's at for me. I buy the coins I like, not the coin that is necessarily worth the most.

 

If you're getting your collecting advice from coins, than, well... :whistle:

Lol, all joking aside, I totally agree with Lehigh.

Spock, I wouldn't call my collection junk (I'm not saying you are). You know I collect Lincoln Cents, and Ancients. I try to get the best coin I can get, for the right price. Right now, I'm having a difficult time trying to assemble and XF-AU set of Lincolns. It's coming along, and is getting quite nice I believe (I'm not bragging, lol), even though it is a circulated set.

There are many more factors that play into a coin, than just grading as you know. I feel that even though I'm not putting together a MS-65 Red set of Lincolns, I can still have just as a nice set based on other factors, regardless whether or not my coins are circulated or uncirculated. I go by eye-appeal, strike, luster if there is any, etc. I know these play into a coins grade, except that is honestly more so in the MS grades than the circulated grade. Where those factors do apply sometimes with circulated coins (especially when you get higher up on the scale), I can still put together quite a nice set, even though it is XF-AU.

My budget is quite miniscule, so I try to do what I can with it. The AU-64 that Lehigh is talking about is a primo coin that would grade MS-64, except it has a little wear on it, making it an AU. That little bit of wear does not bother me, especially if I can pick up a primo coin for an AU price. Wear is not the only factor when it comes to grading. Where it is very important, an AU coin can be nicer than most GEM coins out there. I'm sorry if I am taken as rambling here, lol.

Phoenix

 

What is "Primo". Define Primo for me. I can't find tat technical term in the red book.

Ruben

 

And it is a joke. It should be ended. If you want to fix the grading system, then have fun.

Ruben

 

Huh?

 

pri·mo (prm)
n. pl. pri·mi (-m) also pri·mos (-mz) Music
The principal part in a duet or ensemble composition.
adj.
1. First.
2. Slang
a. Exceptionally good of its kind; first-class.
b. Highly or most valuable.
[Italian, from Old Italian, first, from Latin prmus; see per1 in Indo-European roots.]

Adj. 1. primo - the best of its kind
colloquialism - a colloquial expression; characteristic of spoken or written communication that seeks to imitate informal speech
best - (superlative of `good') having the most positive qualities; "the best film of the year"; "the best solution"; "the best time for planting"; "wore his best suit"

 

well if you would step into the ring. i need an opponent my own size.