Hello everyone, is there a way to remove the solder from coins like this? If so, what's the best way to remove the hardware with the least damage to the coins? After a quick google search, I read something that said to soak the coins in hydrochloric acid (sold as Muriatic acid in hardware stores). Think that would work? Thanks in advance and look forward to any replies!
The act of attaching those things will have permanently damaged it. Even if you remove them they will forever be damaged. There is an Allen Stockton, (sp?) in CA who advertises in the Numismatist who does good work in repairing damaged coins. Maybe he would be successful in making the most of whatever is possible with them.
Yeah I know they will be damaged but would rather have a flat damaged reverse and these hardware pieces poking out. Ill look into that! I was more hoping for an at home remedy instead but will still check it out
There are methods to remove the solder, but not without the damage mentioned. There is a wire braid used to suck up the solder. You don't have to apply heat directly to the soldered surface. When you apply or remove solder you actual draw it. Check out some professionals. Or, look up some techniques for working with electronics.
That should be silver solder and a good jeweler should be able to remove the most of it without any trouble. Carefully heating the area and using a vacuum suction to remove it will still leave a slight residue, and that will always show, but it will remove the majority of it.
Be sure you go to a fabricating jeweler ... one who actually makes jewelry. Some of these folks can do amazing work. Most jewelry stores can't do any fabricating or alterations in house. Good chance the solder or brazing on the coins has a high melting point ... beyond what a soldering iron can handle ... so a minitorch will have to be used ... not a job for an amateur. Cal
Yes, Allan Stockton. But the one I know lives in KY Yes, but the one I know lives in KY & I’m sure it’s the same guy. I’ve used him several times to rescue scarce but seriously hurt coins and have always been pleased & impressed with the results. The only down side has been that he’s well sought-after and it may take him some time before he can get to your job, but he’s always been up-front about that. Funny thing, I’ve also used his father before him for the same problems, and with the same happy results. He’s got a web site; don’t know what it is offhand but you can Google it, I’d guess. Let’s hear if you use him.
You mentioning his father make me certain its the same man. I am sure I was wrong what state he lives in.
@vdbpenny1995 Allen did an excellent job removing a frame from one of my medieval coins. If you are interested in seeing what he did please send me a PM His email: crsstockton@aol.com His website: https://crsstockton.com/ you can find his phone number on the website Highly recommended
Gold and silver coins have been used for many purposes for centuries. Good that they did, many survived till now because of it. I have some coins from the 1600's that had been jewelry mounted coins.
I went to his website and WOW what impressive coin restorations. I sent him an email asking if he can restore dates on worn silver coins. If it's possible, I'm sure he would know how to do it.
Good advice for lead or tin solder which melt around 500 F. Jewelry is done with silver or gold solder and melts between 1100 and 1500 F. You have to use a torch to melt them and I haven't seen a vacuum that can take that punishment. And wire braid just melts at those temperatures. The Muriatic or nitric acid method would work on the gold coin as those acids really won't react much with the coin, but they will attack the silver coin. Don't mix the two on the gold coin because then you get aqua regia which WILL dissolve gold. The acid won't work if gold solder is used. If you want to try Muriatic acid as a do it yourself on the silver coin, dip it in some melted wax to coat the whole thing, then scratch the wax off just the solder and then soak it in the acid. The wax will protect the coin and it will only attack the exposed solder. But once the acid reaches the coin metal it will attack that too. So as coin metal is exposed as the solder is removed you will need to remove the coin rinse it, dry it apply wax again and the once again scratch the wax off just the solder. Doing that in successive stages you should be able to remove most or all the solder with out doing a lot of damage tot he coin. When the solder is all gone, put the coin in hot water, 150+ F (a brief boil would probably be good) and leave it for a little bit then just let the water cool back down to room temperature. The wax will melt off the coin and being lighter, float to the top of the water. Once it cools the wax will re-solidify on the top of the water and you can then remove the coin.
