Raw coins vs graded encapsulated

If you show me where I dissed slab collectors I will apologize and edit it. I looked and didn't find it.

 

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Exactly. But I was being called a rube because of my choose style of collecting.

 

A rube is simply another name for a novice. Would you prefer I use greenhorn or neophyte? And please define “everything else.” My definition is they aren’t insults rather hard truths that you just don’t wanna hear.

Your interaction with @Morgandude11 was incredibly rude & sarcastic. Telling a guy that he has misinterpreted your posts, offering a hollow apology and to delete your posts if he can find anyone who agrees with him with the sole purpose of characterizing him as just one grumpy guy on the forum is extremely rude. Now I don’t know if anyone agreed with &
@Morgandude11 before, but once you posted that, I agreed with him wholeheartedly.

Btw, you didn’t answer my question. What is my “freakin way” of collecting.

 

You are over your head, newbie. Either be nice, or be gone. We welcomed you, and you acted like a horse’s patoot.

 

No, you are being called a rube, because you are flaunting your inexperience, and being doctrinaire about it. Most of us who disagree in a friendly manner here are very experienced collectors. You, sir, are a greenhorn.

 

I've had no issues except from you two. So let's just agree to ignore each other. I'll converse with others.

 

You have issues with a lot of people, greenhorn.

 

Although I am not yet on your list of people you have issues with, it's only because the responses seem to be adequately covered by other posters.

I must say I find your disrespectful tone towards @Lehigh96 to be particularly offputting. I have savored his posts for several years for their even-handed, articulate accuracy. If you want to get to know someone better before brawling with them, you should go back and review his body of work on this forum. He needs no defense, since his posts say just what he means them to say, and you should take each word as precisely used.

Even if you feel insulted you should read the words without prejudice. If you feel offended by being called a rube, look it up, for you can be assured it is not name-calling, but is used with surgical precision to describe exactly the concept he means it to say.

So I apologize to @Lehigh96 if I seem to be rushing to your aid - you definitely don't need it. But the OP said he was blocking you, so he would be missing out on contributions I have always appreciated. May he aspire to that level, should he manage to climb out of the hole he has dug for himself.

Regards,
Ron

 

Gloves increase the chance of the coin slipping out of your hands and falling, increasing the risk of damaging the coin. If you handle raw coins properly, you won’t have that issue. This is why none if the graders use gloves, even for 7-figure coins.

Now that you know the rationale, is it “blindly following” advice to not use gloves?

I have rubbed shoulders many times with @Lehigh96, but I have still leaned much from him.

Jeff comes from a position that you are a new collector who is still learning how to grade and authenticate coins. While you are on your journey, he thinks it is imperative for you to invest in the added protection of certification until you know what you are doing.

Do you know how to spot a dipped coin? Do you know the differences between circulation hairlines and cleaning hairlines? Do you know the diagnostics of whizzed coins? Do you know the strike characteristics of every variety of each early US coin type? Do you know the diagnostics of each of the high-quality die transfers that have infiltrated the market? Do you know how to spot the 90% gold die-struck counterfeits of pre-1933 gold?

Can you answer yes to all of the questions above? No need to post the answer here. Be honest with yourself. If not, then buy certified coins until you do.

There is so much more to learn to both protect yourself and properly evaluate a coin. There are so many counterfeits and ways to deceptively alter a coin. Keep in mind I could ask 4 times as many questions about other advanced areas of grading and authentication.


What Ken is saying is that no one should define what your collection should be. Don’t like slabs? Crack them out. Don’t like Morgans? Don’t buy them. Maybe you do like Morgans, but you have no intention of completing the set. Don’t let anyone tell you that you have to finish the set to be considered a true collector or Morgan enthusiast.

What Ken is NOT saying Is that it is okay to make stupid decisions or buy beyond your knowledge level. I’d be completely comfortable in my ability to authenticate and grade a $50,000 Chain Cent and pay up had I the money. However, I would make a hard pass on a 1928 Chinese Automobile dollar because I have absolutely no clue how to authenticate it. Me paying $50,000 for one raw would be beyond stupid. Me paying more than $100 on any raw Chinese silver dollars is stupid, actually. I ignore them all because they are too risky.

Read the above and see if your opinion changes. Once you learn enough to hold your own with the graders, you can ignore the advice of only purchasing graded coins. Make that call too soon, you will have some very expensive lessons down the line.

If Jeff is telling you that the coins have to stay in their holders, that’s a reasonable difference of opinion. He is coming from the stance that their marketability is greatly hampered by being raw, and that you would have to invest in sending the coins back in to make them more marketable again. However, you can crack them out with no harm done.

 

I guess the statement that got to me in the OP was this:

which to my reading suggests that a "real" collector doesn't buy certified coins ; that those who do, don't study their coins, or derive genuine pleasure from viewing them, and that once they are purchased, they are "tossed in a drawer" and forgotten.
Graded, certified coins can still have a host of problems and buyers still need to be careful to avoid buying problematic, "market acceptable" coins. I enjoy studying my graded coins, looking at the surfaces, how dies were modified, die states, and what was happening in history when they were produced and circulated. They aren't an investment as such but they will at least be more marketable for my heirs, or for me if I decide to sell them myself.
I'm also a type collector and don't know every single US series in great detail, so buying a higher grade coin for the type set is less risky for me if it is already graded ( not everybody is John Milton!)
If you are sticking to fairly inexpensive raw coins for your type set, great, it reduces the risks of significant loss and you can handle them all you want. When you get to that Trade Dollar hole, though, you may want to purchase a certified one and break it out. Just sayin'.

 

OK, so I take it back. I typed too quickly. I wasn't trying to say that all slab collectors did that. Can I just say sorry and move on? Maybe this whole thread should be deleted!

 

It's ok with me to press the reset button, I've been known to let my typing get ahead of my thoughts. A belated welcome to the forum.

 

Thank you. Much appreciated.

 

There is some very good information on the last couple of pages of this thread for sure! Many raw collectors can use slabs to educate themselves on a coin series. Here is a coin that is slabbed but probably never should have been.

I have posted this one before and may have even stumped @Lehigh96 on this one. But is is good for educational purpose at this point and is a useful study of AU versus UNC and FS versus not FS for this series.
Not worth the cost of grading from a resale perspective (although I probably can get my $5 back if I decided to sell a little easier because of the slab), but valuable from an educational perspective.

 

From your pictures, that Jefferson is not full steps.

 

Yes I know the pictures are not the best. In the previous posting of this coin and discussion there was quite a bit of discussion on this point and whether it was AU or UNC.

 

Actually really close to 6FS.

 

A good example of photos can be deceiving. The full steps show well in the last photo.

 

Maybe you should post a sincere apology to all the experienced collectors that you offended. I, for one, have made many mistakes here, and when I am wrong, apologize. I would definitely forgive you, if you admitted that you were tactically wrong in making a generalization the way you did. Look, given what has been going on, we are all stressed. Start over with a sincere apology, and an open mind, and you will be eagerly welcomed.

 

I was told that: "Your interaction with @Morgandude11 was incredibly rude & sarcastic. Telling a guy that he has misinterpreted your posts, offering a hollow apology and to delete your posts if he can find anyone who agrees with him with the sole purpose of characterizing him as just one grumpy guy on the forum is extremely rude."

I cannot find any of this. I looked at all my posts in this thread. It's hard for me to apologize for something I don't remember doing and can't find. I asked before to be shown this but no one did so.
Where was I "incredibly rude & sarcastic"? Where did I offer a "hollow" apology if he can find anyone who agrees with him?
I'm not averse to apologizing but I can't find the posts I'm being accused of.

And the Leighigh96 posts attacking me are way out of line if you ask me. My posts after that were in reaction to his.
I think more than one person owes apologies about this mess.