I fooled myself on this one. It was a buy it now and I thought I needed to act quickly. After I purchased this, I discovered the Obverse is 2. I eliminated it for two reasons. One, the T looked too far right. Unfortunately it is an illusion caused by a dark ding at the right corner of the hair crown. Second, I don't usually see the top of the 5 on obverse 2 and think of it as fully embedded and Obverse 3 as partially embedded. It appeared to me like the LIBERTY of Obverse 7 and the Date of Obverse 3 and they both had other diagnostics which eliminated them. This is partly due to my quest to discover the first NC-2 NOT struck on a TAL token. So I thought it was a new obverse die consistent with other early 95s. Here it is. Would it have fooled you at first glance?
My go-to diagnostic for NC-2 (and S-79) is the date spacing: 1 79 5 From my notes, it is a lettered edge, which narrows it down to 4 varieties. The T is over the junction of hair and forehead, the upright of R is over the hair wave, and the top of the 5 is mostly embedded in the bust. That narrows it down to 1 obverse (2 varieties). The top of the wreath has two single leaves (Rev of 1795), there is a single leaf over the second A in AMERICA, And there is no protruding leaf under R, among a host of other differences, which isolate the variety as S-74.
Yeah, That's why I took the closer look after buying it. I had eliminated all the known obverses because of a couple of quirks. But PMD and die state variations always require closer observation. I'm just too eager after the 1796 NC-4 got away while I was double checking it. But now I have two replacements.
S-161 Terminal die state? @TypeCoin971793 says it should also qualify for an off-center error since the top of the in LIBERTY it missing.
Man. Save one for me. You seem to own a lot of these. Do you have a special place where we can see them all?
I'm working on that now. I'm still in the process of making sure I have consistent Photos of each of my coins with edge shots where relevant. I'm down through the S-120a, but still backtracking with a couple right now with either no edge shot or recent purchases. I just finished up a S-59 by adding edge shots this morning.I'm figuring out how to diffuse the light with LED lights. I'm using a cut up napkin tied around the LED light held by old bread tie twists and it seems to get a good shot, but not pro level. It's amazing how some edges are great on otherwise low grade coins and other edges are barely there on mid grade coins.
I have my Liberty Caps in a Gallery, but can't figure out how to link it or share it. My Album is called, "Marshall's Early Date Large Cents". If anybody else can tell me if it's accessible or what I need to do to make it accessible, I would appreciate it. https://www.cointalk.com/media/albums/marshalls-early-date-large-cents.764/ Does this work for you?
This looks better. I don't know how you actually took the obverse/reverse images of your coin. Whether you adjusted the slab so the obverse and reverse designs would present square (12 o'clock) for each individual image or Whether you kept the slab square for each individual picture which would present in the images how the obverse and reverse designs lay natural to one another on your coin. I included an image showing the die rotation of your coin based on how your images were actually presented. Why My thoughts (which I do not know if true) once the dies are set in the coin press the die rotation remains basically static for all the coins produced by that die pairing. Chinese counterfeits are improving to the point that we may have to resort to other methods to authenticate. Die rotation could be another such tool; if it is a true static aspect of a die pairing.
I usually square up each side for comparison of dies rather than focusing on rotation. While rotation is often consistent, there are some varieties produced with loose collars leading to rotation all the way around the clock and others which were changed during the life of the dies.