Ok, the list came sooner than I thought! For those of you that don't know, my friend's mom just inherited some coins, and I asked her if I could have list of the coins. I hope this is a great opportunity for me. So, here are the coins. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me which ones you think would be worth buying and for how much!! I HAVE been looking up to see which ones I think could be worth buying, and I've indicated them by making them bold, so I promise I'm not just being lazy. Thank you! Morgans: 1878 with 7 feathers 1880-S 1881-S 1884-O 1885-S 1889-O 1890 1896-O 1898-O 1899-S 1900-S 1904-S 1921 Peace: 1921 1922 1927 1934 Eisenhower: 1971 1972 Bicentennial Walking Silver Dollar: 1994 Walking Half Dollar: 1916-D 1918 1919 1928-S 1929 1929 1935 1936 1939 1942 1944 1946 1947 Susan B.: 1979 (doesn't everyone have a hundred of these??) Indian Head Pennies: 1879 1883 1884 1890 1900 1905 Mercury Dimes: 1916 1916-S 1917 1917-S 1917-D 1918-S 1918-D 1919 1919-D 1920-S 1920-D 1921-D 1923 1923-S 1924 1924-D 1925 1926-D 1926-S 1927 1928-S 1928-S 1929-S 1930 1931-S 1934-D 1935-D 1936 1937-D 1938 1938-S 1938-D 1939-S 1939-D 1940-D 1940-S 1941-D 1942 1942-D (I'd just look for the overdates, I know they're pretty common otherwise) 1943-D 1944-D 1944-S 1945 1945-S so many mercs! Barber Dimes: 1914 1916 Standing Liberty Quarter: 1930 Roosevelt Dimes: "many years worth" George Washingtons Quarters: "many but 6 1964s in uncirculated condition" Ben Franklins: (looks like she didn't do the mint mark, so which marks are best?) 1949 1950 (JK!!!! I wish) 1951 1953 1954 1958 1960 1961 1963 JFKs: "several" Buffalo Nickels: "many many many" Jefferson Nickels: "many" Lincolns: "Every year to 2006 except for 2 years" And that's all, but WHOA MOMMA is that a lot! My reasoning behind wanting the bolded selections is either a) low mintage-ish date or b) I just really want one because I don't have it, and if it's cheap, i'm on it. Overall, I think I've hit the jackpot so far as opportunities come, and I'd really appreciate some feedback here! Thanks again! -Peter
without a grade evaluation this is hard. But more so, even with that, its a LOT of work. I think you need to first pickup the red book and look over the resulting auctions on Ebay and Heritage and start the slow process of figuring out what the values are. Also, you must figure out grades. This is going to take work, time and education. Finally, I'm curios what type is the 72 IKE Ruben
If the price is right, why not take everything for a bundled deal!!?? Besides, if the price is right, buying in bulk is much easier and cost efficient than picking over a few and pricing them individually! Frank
I agree with you, but I have no idea how much I should offer for it all!! What do you think would be a fair offer? And Ruben, I agree, I really need to get a Red book. In fact, I'm ebaying that right now. Also, I have no idea what type the Ike is, why do you ask? What should I be looking for?
I was thinking the same thing. That would give you an opportunity to check for VAMS and doubled die coins. Lou
Forgive this but just throw a dollar amount on the table and see what they say....worst case, they'll turn you down. How quickly do they want to liquidate the collection?
That's what I was thinking, but I don't even know what would be a good estimate. I suppose I could figure out the melt value and pay for a little over that...but I dunno, do you think I could get a better deal? And I have no clue what is going to happen to this collection or when, but it was killing me that she was just keeping it in a closet without any interest in it. I HAD to act.
Oh, limited funds indeed......well make an offer, what you think is fair and can be supported by your financial situation at this time.
I purchased a friends collection a few years back. The way I came up with the purchase price was to look at the dealers want adds on Coin World and Numismatic News. What the dealers where offering to buy the coins for is the offer that I made to my friend. Lou
What I would do is make an offer for the whole lot. The way I would go around that is to make sure that none of the coins are either low grade like AG, or higher MS. Then fine the melt price and work around that. EX: For each silver dime I'll pay $1 each. The 1921-D I'll pay $20...or whatever. For each silver quarter I'll pay $2.25 each For each silver half I'll pay $3.00 each For each silver dollar I'll pay $7.50. I haven't checked silver today so this could be high or low--- On the better dates such as the 21 Peace check the coins grade and make sure it hasn't been cleaned. Then find out what you think it would be worth, and then lower that to your offer price. Try to get it low enough so that if you have to flip it to a dealer you can break even or come out ahead. A few years ago when 1938-D half dollars were selling for around $30 I offered $15 for one...I was buying a large lot of coins and after selling some I got it for close to $2.50. The guy took the offer and after having the coin for awhile I decided to get it graded. Came back F! On the stuff like the Ike dollars---Cents and Jefferson Nickels...as long as they aren't War Nickels or Wheat cents I would offer face. Speedy
silver's at $9.47 an ounce right now, so I figured the mercs would be $0.68 each at minimum for their melt value. Specifically, this is what I've calculated for melt values: Morgans and Peace: $7.37 Silver Eagle: $9.37 Walking Liberty Half: $3.47 Mercs, Barbers, and Roosevelts: $0.68 Standing Liberty and Washington silvers: $1.71 Would anyone accuse me of being a thief (or a shmuck, for that matter) for offering melt value for anything under AU??
With melt being that I would bump it up to something like this: Morgans and Peace: $7.50-7.75 Silver Eagle: $10 Walking Liberty Half: $3.50 Mercs, Barbers, and Roosevelts: $0.75 Standing Liberty and Washington silvers: $1.75 Speedy