Don't want to derail this thread, but it depends upon what one wants to collect. Many desirable coins are not found in circulation (there's an obvious statement, eh?) and dealers will have access and more variety of coins to choose from. I don't know if you've ever been to a mid to large coin show where 100s of dealers are present, but I get a THRILL every time seeing the variety available and the possibilities of what to add to my collection.
There is no if, the metal IS softer. Take a Proof coin, get a dish towel and wipe the surface of the coin with it, exerting a little pressure. You'll see the scratches it makes every single time. Now take the same towel and go wipe one of your windows - you won't see any scratches on the glass.
qtips, if used, must be ROLLED across the surface so that they pick up the dirt. If used to rub the dirt off, marks will result.
The only thing I would consider using on any decent coin would be a Russian sable paint brush , with only the end being used , these can be bought at any art store , but even that could hairline a coin , but it is a lot safer and softer than any other fibers I know of . rzage
I have heard from a large seller of Modern commems. that he uses an acetone rinse to remove 'milk spots' from his proofs, followed by rinsing in distilled water and drying on lint free cloth. He swears it works.... but I haven't tried it.
What causes the milk spots , I recently bought a '53 proof set in the original Gov. packing , the coins look fine except for a few milk spots , is this par for the early box packaging , or should I try to take them back , I figured that any of the box packed proofs would have these milk spots . rzage:hatch::hammer:
Nobody knows for sure what causes them, and nobody has ever found a way to get rid of them either. And trust me, they have tried. They are not common on older Proof sets. Haze is common, but not milk spots.
ill go fix milk spot after verdigris. if i can fix both of them there wont be a coin in this world i cant afford :hammer:
Well, they have tried the harshest dips, those remove metal just like a grinder would - the spots come back.
Doug , I went back and looked at my '53 proof set they don't have any milk spots , but there is some hazing problems , any suggestions . Also should I leave them in the original Gov. packing or take them out . rzage:smile
hmmmm.... I think I would rather be dipped than ground, unless I was hamburger in which case I would have already been ground, and being dipped wouldn't be so bad considering I would be eaten shortly thereafter. Other useless comments will be subdued.... hopefully. For some reason I just couldn't hold back from making a pointless remark; however.... I gotta get me some of that dip to pour on my overpriced truck.
If it was me, I'd sell it and get another one. I spent many years collecting original Mint and Proof sets - literally looked through thousands and thousands of them always trying to find the nicest sets I could. Breaking up those sets is almost criminal to me. I'd never advocate breaking one up. If you don't like the one you have - get another. Somebody else will be tickled pink with the one you have now.
Does this discussion of coin cleaning apply to just uncirculated and proof coins, or does it also include circulated coins? It would seem that a light cleaning with soap and water or other non-reactive chemical won't appreciably damage a coin that has already been damaged by circulation. I don't mean acid to remove corrosion, or scrubbing with toothpaste to shine it up, but what's wrong with solvents to dissolve dirt and remove finger oils?
A circulated coin that is cleaned of its natural circulation dirt will look funny , you'd be suprised how clean a coin will get with just soap and water . JMO . rzage:smile