They say its a no-no but we all know that its done all the time. How much cleaning is undetectable but acceptable. I have heared of using Thorine dioxide, sulfuric acid, acetone, gasoline, and belive it or not the dishwasher. In your opinion what is the best way to clean them or what products to use.
Unless you know exactly what you are doing, the best way to clean them is not to. It is easy to take a $10,000 (put your appropriate number of zero's) and make it worth $10. No one has yet made a $10 coin worth $10,000.
Simple, just turn the sentence around, Cleaning is acceptable until it is detectable. You haven't spent much time on eBay have you? (Cheap coin + cleaning/polishing + hype) X suckers =$$$$$$
The key is doing it right , and only to coins that really need it . Practice on many cheap coins in the metal you want to clean . The idea is to clean it without removing the surface luster or flow lines . rzage
And if you sell it to someone who knows absolutely nothing and pays 10x what it is really worth ? I would agree, but I would qualify the statement - an item is worth what you can sell to a knowledgeable person for.
Very well said. You can polish a turd so it looks brilliant, but it's still a turd until someone unknowing thinks it's a diamond in the ruff.
Personally I soak my circulated coins in denatured alcohol before putting them in my albums. I do this to remove any oils and loose dirt. You will need to keep the alcohol fairly clean and/or use a second bath because if there are impurities (say from a dirty coin) they can leave spots when the coin dries (like glasses in a dishwasher sometimes get). Also, do not use q-tips, or swirl the coin around in a container as both will leave scratch marks. I have read that even this gentle cleaning is readily detectable. Personally I view such claims as arrogant and false. However, even if it is detectable, alcohol does not damage the surface of the coin in any way, I do not want to leave oils that will eventually damage the coin on its surface, and I do not view dirt as being "history".
dprice7: look up some posts on Blue Ribbon Coin conditioner or Coin Care products. They do the opposite. They coat the coin with a nonacidic oil based product. Oil's are sticky (petroleum, baby oil) because they have strong bonds (covelant) with equal chemical attraction for each other, unlike ionic bonds such as in acids, water, etc. The idea that water and oil don't mix is relevant here. Putting oil based substance on the coin repels humidity (water), sulfur (a very reactive ionic compound), and other contaminats. Removing all oil from coins (except acidic fingerprints), places your coins at risk for more reactions if left that way. Of course air and humidity are the biggest problems. Just my opinion. I put "Coin Care" on all my coins with no problems.
Cleaning Coins I cannot see how one cannot clean off dirt,crud, adhesives etc. from ciculated coins when the coin is an acceptable saveable and salvageable one. What to use and how to is the hard part. What about mineral spirits? And a Q-tip can't hurt if used in a knowledgeable manner. I've seen optical techs. clean lenses with either(eether) and Q-tips. Better have EXCELLENT ventilation and I mean it. My clock restorer friend uses naptha as a cleaner. Q-tips are good but nothing is better--me. zg
Did you ever think that glass lenses might be harder and thus more scratch resistant than the metal coins are made of ? Q-tips will scratch/hairline coins.
I've seen them turn ugly over time using this method. Dip is an acid and it needs to be neutralized. I'm not sure just hot water is going to handle that.
Yeah I gave IT a thought but not a very good one. I have to agree with you IF the metal is softer. But really, softer than a Q-TIP? What about nickels and dimes? I know you're right so I guess I don't have a coin to stand on. Isn't coin collecting supposed to mean collecting and not buying? Buying from a dealer seems to take the fun/joy out of collecting. What do you say? Thanks ZG