Possible doubled die obverse 1981 Lincoln cent.

These are both 1981 look at the reverse.

 

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Check the photos on this site:http://doubleddie.com/828739.html
Which was already given to you by @Kevin Mader
Read the markers and show us where they are on your coin. Thank you

 

One should find the correct doubling first and only then use the markers for confirmation. Markers are only good if they are ONLY on the working die that produced the DD you are 'seeing' and not on 'sister' working dies from the same transfer die ,that do not have the doubled die. IMO, Jim

 

This is the best photos i can get. Look at the A at the end of AMERICA look at the E in STATES and also the signature. I am comparing to the same link. Why does it say none know yet theres a link with references?

 

Here

 

I dont understand. The only one i can compare mine to has worn die. Then states none known.

 

Mr. P., it's the fault of all of the darn doubled die specialists who see fit to include all of the garbage varieties on their websites. If they had to put up with all of these ridiculous inquiries, they would shut their sites down and start teaching knitting classes.

Yeah, I know! I'm sure that our members will counter with something like, "If you don't like it, you don't have to respond!" The problem is that we still have to have this forum cluttered up with a lot of useless garbage....machine doubling....die deterioration...."Hey, I found the markers. Is this doubling?"....14,000 photos of the same image....and, I love this one, "I'll get a better camera. You'll see the difference then!" ~ Chris

 

I think that's a generally fair statement as the common factor as the dies progress through their different die states is the doubling itself. Markers will change over time, some remaining for the life of the tool, some disappearing, and new ones appearing. That said, for the minor varieties, the doubling itself can be obscured by circulation wear or damage leaving the markers as the definitive characteristics to attribute a specimen.

I feel that to a certain degree you are right as it can be a double bladed sword. This particular variety (1981 DDO) requires a EDS and near uncirculated coin to see the split in the tail of the 9. Without markers, attribution might be nearly impossible. For the other variety (1981 DDR), the same is true. Because of the minor doubling involved, clean specimens and fine photos are needed to help perform diagnostics. Unfortunately, Kyle's photos aren't quite crisp enough to make the firm diagnostic. On the broader topic, I feel that variety hunting has added to our hobby in a mostly positive way. While there is a down side to most anything, I think that folks learning to become variety collectors creates renewed interest for coin collecting and has us looking closer at the money running through our fingers. Limits are being tested, like the innumerable DDRs in the reverses of the pressed coins. A broader grouping/classification, perhaps as some have done for BIE cents, should be used rather than spending endless hours wondering if your coin is the one listed. Maybe that happens...or maybe it doesn't.

Kyle - based on your new photos, I don't see anything in particular that substantiates that you are holding onto a doubled die coin. We would need photos that mimic what Wexler has posted in order to bear out a better response for you. Your coin could be from a different die state, so as pointed out, unless you can establish the doubling, markers wouldn't be a help. In your original post, it wasn't clear to me what doubling you thought you were seeing. Luckily, only one DDO and one DDR are listed, so figuring out one or the other wasn't a terrible burden. Had it been for a popular DD date, that would make a task undesirable. From your later posts, it seems you think you have the DDR specimen. I feel the most important diagnostic will be the scratches in the Y on the obverse. Look there, and take crisp photos of that and the FG initials. The T in CENT would also be helpful to me.

 

I will take exact match photos as needed. I will mimic the camera shots that are used on variety vista.

 

Of course, one point that we have failed to mention is the fact that the vast majority of these minor varieties are not even accepted for attribution by the major grading services. Why don't these variety websites mention this? It would save people a lot of grief knowing this beforehand. ~ Chris

 

That's a good point. I suppose Red Book has identified the more generally accepted variety coins (1922 Plain, 1917/1955/1972/1983/1995 Lincoln DDs, etc.) but there are thousands of other DDs of which there are a number that have reasonable value too. Still, there are tons that merit little more than what could be had for a bit over accessed value of a 'normal' specimen. And as many can attest to, it sometimes takes more effort to figure out which RPM you have when there are more than 100 listed for some dates. I've gotten pretty good at attributing, but I have way more unattributed varieties that are waiting for the proverbial 'rainy day'. And forget the press minted DDRs; I am sure I have a hundred or more unattributed varieties...maybe closer to 200 (cents/nickels). I toss them into a container waiting for an eventual attribution...but not in my name. It would have to be a fairly interesting variety to warrant that interest. But despite all of this, I enjoy finding variety coins. If I wasn't doing it, I'm sure I wouldn't have known about the Henning Nickels and would have spent the one I found.

 

I took a look; looks like the only one to list a DDO/DDR is Wexler for this date. Use his shots instead.

 

I have looked as well. Look at the A in STATES AND THE As in AMERICA. I will take more when i am back home.

 

Also the FG looks very close. Problem i have is the die on the penny Wexler shows is worn.

 

Try reducing the glare. Perhaps use an off-white/solid light color backing too. Diffuse the lighting a bit. We need some level of shadows, so don't dial it back too much.

 

Ok can do just give me about an hour.

 

I feel like the best way to prove to yourself that IT'S NOT A DDO is to spend like $50 or more to send it in for grading, and get it returned, bagged, with a "sorry, it's not a ddo" note attached

 

Best lighting i can get. Sorry guys

 

May just have to do that.