1889 One dollar (rare)

I've got five of them that were in a bulk purchase I made at a garage sale 15-20 years ago, but for the life of me, I have never been able to determine if they are the regular strikes or the Specimen strikes. I am sure that they are probably the regular strikes, but do you know how to tell the difference?

By the way, is it all right if I save your images of the Crown? I lost my photos years ago when my graphics card died.

Chris

PS. I hope you do know that I was joking about the "grasshopper" comment. I always enjoy reading and learning from your posts. That is why I used it.

 

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I have one somewhere that was a present from my grandfather after a trip he too. I can't help thinking SirW had a bad day when he modeled for the coin.

 

Hi Chris,

Sure, you can use the photos. I have another one in a dealer’s prepackaged set that might be nicer. I will have look at it. Don’t hold you breath.

As for the image of Churchill, I don’t think that is the problem. The coins were struck on copper-nickel planchets, which are hard, and they were not handled carefully after they were struck. Some of marks on the portraits may have been on the planchets and not flattened when the coins were struck. To get an attractive coin, you need special efforts in the manufacturing and handling.

As for better ones, a dealer told me that they did exist, but in short supply, in strong hands and not generally available.

 

someone needs to make their own thread .. hijackers

 

What if the coin dealer were a little old lady?

It's those gosh darn things that you don't really have to do that get ya every single time!

 

What grade? Raw or certified? Do I have 5 minutes to consult the internet?

 

NGC lists this at $46.00 for grade MS-60, a grade imo it is really close to.

Having said that, it may grade lower, the obverse rim showing ding deformities.

BUT...the devices behind the eye, and above that below the U/PLURIBUS, indicate possible clashing.
That raises the question of an associated VAM number. And, if there be clashing on the obverse it follows there may be clashing on the reverse, too.

The reverse pic is too blurry to determine anything along these lines...the OP needs to consult VAM World or the encyclopedia to research.

As it is, there were no VAM listings @ NGC for any 1889 Morgan, no matter what mint. The only other listings were for PL and DPL, of which do not apply to this coin...Spark

 

No! You've had plenty of time already!

Chris

 

Most clashes do not warrant a VAM unless they are letter transfers.

Chris

 

Thanks!

Chris

 

$2 - retail.

 

The photos are not very good (the OP). Disagree on MS 60.
The coin appears circulated and most likely cleaned.
Since it is a common circulated Morgan, that's what
I based my lowball price value on.

 

I agree it is always better to have a coin in hand versus pictures to assess, I defer to your reasoning.

If this got TPGd, and survived without a details on the label, it would come close to a MS60 value. AU55/$42 and AU58/$43...both certified values from NGC.

AND I also agree to your lowball value, a price anyone hopes to buy for. I am not sure it would straight grade, though...Spark

 

All this ^ *claps*

 

Not de-monetized, they are worth £0.25, I get dozens of them every month along with all the other regular Crown issues from 1953 onwards.
When I have enough I take them to the bank and exchange them for face value along with all the other pre decimal Half Crowns, Two Shillings and Shillings.

 

1889 Vam 23A is worth big money. Not an expert but if it has IN on the obverse you may have a winner!

Otherwise take it back to the shop and get what you can for it.

 

Not seeing VAM 23A clashing from the OP pic. It seems to have a slightly slanted date, though, unless my eyes are playing tricks on me. Went out to VAM World to run down the attribute...Spark