AU with Scratches?

That's kind of what I have decided to do, except that I can't get used to coins in slabs. If you can't play with them and heft them, what good are they? That's probably heresy among "real" collectors, but that's how I feel about it. And, at age 72, I'm not likely to change!

What is "ha"?

 

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While I have your attention, I notice these gold coins on the web that are slabbed with the Prospector label. What is the significance of that?

 

Here's the thing. If you're going to be picky about a coin then buying a random one from Apmex isn't the best idea. In my experience they're spot on with their labels sometimes even conservative but when I'm buying something random it's because the actual appearance of the coin is irrelevant. Especially with Saint Gaudens there are literally millions of examples out there to choose from for not much over spot and you can examine and pick the one you like. That's a much better idea than grabbing a random one again if the condition is important and it's not just for bullion value. You can always buy it in a slab and take it out. I once bought an MS64 common saint for $70 over spot from Apmex and it had ebay bucks so it's actual cost to me was under spot.

If you buy a random AU Saint, it will have dings, it may have spots (common since it's 90% gold) and it will have hairlines. That doesn't necessarily mean it's not an AU. Gold is a very soft metal relative to other coins, seeing light circulation (as an AU would) does show it's effects.

 

I've enlarged both of your coins. It's been written that maybe 90% of the coins before the early 1900's have been cleaned. Years ago information was given on how to clean a coin. Q David Bowers and his book on Photograde is an educational read. Any coin below perfect MS 70 should be details graded with a clarification as to why it did not get a 70 grade. Eye appeal is important, damage is important. I don't mind a light cleaning or cabinet friction as many say. Unless one is rich, most collectors can't afford the perfect coin or "the best". I personally would keep your coins and learn from the purchase event. If you haven't yet, join a coin club. Get a good grading guide. Go to coin shows. Learn coin grading and gain knowledge and experience. Buy the book before you buy the coin. Buy the coin based on eye appeal and not the holder. Most coins have picked up scratches, nicks, chips, something that keeps it from the perfect MS-70. Enjoy the coin collecting hobby.

 

I see a book of that name on Amazon by James F. Ruddy. I assume that's the same one and Bowers is just an earlier author.

 

Thanks for the information. Other than EBay and APMEX, where are other good on-line places to get gold coins of a particular date for less?

 

Thanks for the info. That's very helpful. I'll get the book you recommend.

 

Thanks for the info and advice. That's very helpful. I'll get the book you recommend.

 

This is the book I use. "Grading coins by Photographs" by Q. David Bowers. The one by James F. Ruddy is good but I would suggest the one by Bowers since it is very informative. I have both.

 

Thanks. I'll look them over and buy at least one of them.

 

The 1908 No Motto St. Gaudens $20 gold tends to come with indifferent luster. This piece has something wrong with it beyond that. The fields around Ms. Liberty are down right dull. Something has been done ot that piece to smooth it out. It might even be putty.

Here is the first $20 gold coin I ever bought when I was a YN in the mid 1960s. NGC graded it MS-64. I hope that these photos will show you the difference in the luster. I am sorry I did not get back on this thread earlier. I saw it when I was on an iPad and could not post pictures, and then forgot to get back on it.

 

At that price, I would not worry about it. It is fully within the price range for raw classic US gold. They generally have a 3-5% premium regardless of condition.

 

I just looked over auction prices for 1908 St Gaudens No Motto double eagles on HA.com and closely examined the photos. I think I got a deal.

 

One of the listings of sold double eagles on HA.com says "repaired" but there's no explanation of what that means. Can someone explain it? Here it is: https://coins.ha.com/itm/liberty-do...w-ShortDescription-071515#auction-description

Also, what does Prospector mean?

 

Got another one. What is "reverse grafitti"? Here's the listing: https://coins.ha.com/itm/liberty-do...r-ArchiveSearchResults-012417&lotPosition=0|3

 

Got another one. What is "reverse graffiti"? I don't see any graffiti on it in the traditional meaning of the term. Here's the listing: https://coins.ha.com/itm/liberty-do...r-ArchiveSearchResults-012417&lotPosition=0|3

 

Look at the area in front of Ms. Liberty's face. It is a different color from the rest of the coin. The cheek has marks on it, but they seem lack a sharpness that nicks like would show. I think that the piece has been smoothed to reduce the rough surfaces.

I don't see any letters for grafitti, but I see a lot of smoothing on the left quadrant of the reverse.

You third link goes to the same coin.

 

I also have the two books the Moderator mentioned. I have at least a half dozen grading guide books and another half dozen on counterfeit and altered coins. If you can get to a Library, look and read over the books to decide which one you would like to have. Grading and counterfeit detection is a good one to have. Just make sure you read whatever you get and study it often. You don't need to buy new books if your budget is small. Used books are just as good but you might not and really don't need the latest edition.