A contentious subject. I am conducting my own experiment. No chemicals are being used. Merely looking to expedite the process, provide a suitable environment, down to six months to a year. Looking for advice. Every time I google it, the examples I get, even when asking about non silver coins are mostly about Morgans and other silver. I’ve read a few things online and scrolled through a post here on CT. Ingredients: Air Sulphur Moisture Heat Time At first I thought to just place some coins in a paper envelope but then I decided I didn’t want the surfaces to touch anything. The youngest coins... 2018’s (25, 10, 5 cents), 2016’s (25, 10, 5 cents), were all beautiful examples although placing them into the holder caused minor imperfections. The 2002 50 cent piece is non silver and of course the 1967’s are. I didn’t want to include any pennies in this batch but I am thinking about doing them also. Will there be any favourable results with this test? Advice wanted. p.s. yes that is a pack of matches under the box. I was thinking that moisture might release the sulphur, although, we are smokers and, unfortunately, I do not have a lid for the glass container. I have to get a moisture pack. Currently the container is stored with the plants in the sun in our porch. I didn’t want to use a sliced potatoe I didn’t even want to use the rubber bands but yeah, they wouldn’t stay in the clips otherwise. Yes, just a crazy Canadian, at least, that’s what my family thinks, lol Peace!
Interesting. Wonder how they will turn out. My guess is that it will not end up pretty...but who knows.
Contact or no contact makes little to no difference, at least in most respects. The reason I say that is because it is not contact that causes toning, it is the gasses released by the other objects - such as paper or cardboard, or in your case the cardboard and the matches - that causes the toning. Now I said most respects because contact can have an effect. For example, if you were to lay a coin flat on a piece of cardboard or paper, the side of the coin against the paper or cardboard would be exposed to less air and gasses than the side that faces up. Thus it may not tone as much as the side facing up because the contact is preventing the air from getting to the side of the coin in contact. This, at least the way you're doing it, is always a crap shoot because you have no controls in place. In other words you don't know if the specific gasses being put off by the cardboard and the matches will result in desirable toning or undesirable toning. Nor do you know what the individual coins were previously exposed to - and that always has a large bearing, often a very large bearing, on how toning turns out. With experiments such as the one you are conducting you could easily end up with some coins with no toning, others with desirable toning, and others with undesirable toning - and or any combination of the the three, or any single one of the three. This is the thing that a lot of people conducting toning experiments don't understand - there are more variables involved than you can count. So there's no way you can ever have any expectation of results - unless you control for ALL those variables. And yes, that can easily be done, in fact it is done on a daily basis. But it is done by those who know how to do that. And it results in coins that people fall all over themselves for and pay outrageous prices - never knowing, or even suspecting, that somebody made it happen. And did so in a matter of hours.
I like to keep a couple silver coins in my pocket (not really a good idea, I think I lost an 1890 Morgan that way). I had a 67 40% half in that little coin pocket in my jeans that I forgot about. Well, it went through the washer and dryer before I realized it was missing. I opened the door and it fell out on the floor. There was no toning at all before this.
I should have added that there is always one thing you cannot control for - the quality of the luster on an individual coin. For as the luster varies, the toning on the coin will also vary. This is because to a very large degree toning is dependent on the quality of luster, or lack thereof.
As an experiment I put a proof 2013 ASE in a sealed tupperware container along with a box of wooden matches. I left the obverse exposed for several months then flipped the coin so the reverse was exposed for another few months. Total time was about 8 months.
I have used old coin envelopes I got from a coin dealer years ago. I put a coin that needed so toning in them, and simply didn't tamper with them for a few years. It worked well for me with both old copper and silver. I am not a big a "monster toned" collector. I won't pay a big premium for them, and I am certainly not attracted to AT junk or coins that I find questionable.
Most interesting unintentional experiment was in a thread here on CT last summer. A fellow in Dallas purchased a proof set then forgot about it in the scorching Dallas summer heat. The plastic case twisted and warped. And the proof Coins did all develop a lovely toned hue to them.
I hate to be the one to tell you this and you can enlighten your family but you are just as sane as the majority of your fellow CT's. lol
Yeah... like I mentioned... “some coins”. I’m not a toned coin hoarder but I do have an interest just as I have an interest in all coins and conditions. The biggest aspect I dislike is the green goo that the pennies seem to go through.
I've never really especially liked toned coins, but I'm intrigued by this. Hope this goes very well for you!
Granted, yours wasn't, but to me accidental toning can be some of the prettiest. Case in point, a coin I'm sure many will recognize - It came from a lot, I dunno, 8 or 9 coins, that I purchased as a favor for a friend. They were all the same coin you see above, but all were wrapped in tissue paper as a protection method and simply put away for time. The friend I bought them for, JD White, picked out his 2 favorites and allowed me to pick from among the remaining coins as a thank you. My pick was this coin.