I want to send a few coins in officially to get graded. Right now I'm only thinking 3 so I want to know what my best options are. The coins and what I'm hoping to do: -1909 VDB MS Woody- just grade -1887 MS Morgan- this is a 12a alligator eye VAM so I think I want it graded and VAM unless you convince me otherwise ha. -1878 S MS/PR/PL Morgan- just graded. Not sure if proof or proof like, the fields are very unlike any Morgan I have and any proof I have. What company would be the best option for a first timer? What tier should I get? How should I use the free grade coupon? Any advice is welcome, thanks!
PCGS is king for US coins. NGC would be okay as well As far as the VAMs I don't know those so someone else will have to help there, but if they're a big VAM than they get attributed for free. Unless they're very high grades economy should be fine If you're talking about PCGS you wouldn't. They have two options the 4 and the 8 (the 8 is the better deal) but to use them you have to use them all at once. I would also recommend using them at the regular level with Gold Shield service as that gets you the most value out of them and saves you more than the membership cost. If you're talking about the NGC 150 credit then it would come out of there first before you got charged by them
Do you think its worth it to get the 4 or just do a regular and then pay for individual grading. Im thinking PCGS then but Im not sure what tier. @cpm9ball these things is what i mean, when you sign up you get 4 or 8 free vouchers.
So lets say you spend 150 bucks for 4 free vouchers and a one year subscription that does nothing but allows you to submit coins. You still have shipping. Is it worth grading those coins? Im not sure but what are the rules regarding those vouchers? Is there a maximum value that you can submit regarding those vouchers?
Do you plan on submitting again? The 8 coin one is the best value they have, used right that actually saves you money and I would join every submission if they would let me. That said if you just have 3 or 4 coins and that's it the 4 would be better and just use them at the regular level and really more the regular gold shield level to maximize their value
So, you mean PCGS. Both PCGS and NGC will attribute your "Top 100" Morgan, but I'm not familiar with either of them attributing any VAM's for free. Also, the only company that will attribute all VAM's is ANACS. It's my understanding that ANACS does not require a minimum for the number of coins submitted, but you should check their submission requirements that are online. Chris
Vouches have to all be used at once so if you have 4 you use 4 or if you have 8 you use 8. Any level below express they can be used for. 8 with the regular gold shield service level is worth more than the cost of the 8 and the way to maximize the vouchers the best
Red flag for me in the OP is that you're not sure if the 78-S is proof or prooflike. There are no proof 78-S Morgans. This makes me think that you might not be experienced enough to be seeing everything that needs to be seen on these coins. I strongly encourage you to have someone look at your coins to make sure they'll grade. If you can't show a trusted, competent person in person, post pictures here. If they're truly outstanding coins, I would send to PCGS, otherwise I would recommend ANACS, as it will be significantly less expensive. If these all grade MS63, then none of them are worth more than $50. If cleaned, the Morgans are $25 coins, and the cent less. I periodically put together bulk silver dollar submissions to PCGS, which you could piggyback onto and save a lot of money, but the cent couldn't be included in this.
I apologize, I thought I looked up on PCGS that there was a 78 S proof. This coin might not be worth submitting then, and after looking at current values that the VDB are at it might not be worth it unless I believe it'll grade at 65 or better. And i'm not confident in that. I might have to find a piggyback option like you suggested. Thank you.
I haven't submitted many coins in my life, only ones that were over $250 in value. I guess there were a couple I took a gamble on. However, best thing you can do is, never submit a coin for grading but rather buy it already graded. The exception to that is unless you find something really worth all the fees, something that really needs authentication that you're 100% sure about. You are willing to spend $150 on a PCGS membership, instead buy a $150 slabbed coin off Ebay or something. Also the 1909 woody wouldn't be worth it anyways. TPGs don't like woodys and typically grade them lower than they should.
I would add one more exception as I have done it before and I know some others have as well. Sentimental value you want to protect etc. In those cases if that's what you want and can afford it by all means do it. You are spot on though from a value standpoint that barring some special attachment there are a lot of times where it's better to just buy it already graded
@Evan8 I do remember hearing that about the woodies now that you say that. I think my issue is I have these coins that I feel are excellent examples in both grade and eye appeal and I want them encapsulated and a good "definitive" consensus of their grade. But I don't know if its worth 150+ dollar and all the time to get a number above my coin. I have capsules but they just dont seem as authentic. Maybe i'm over thinking it.
Look up "world premier coin slabs." They actually fit with PCGS slabs pretty well when stacked. They will give you that "graded" feel in a way. As far as the grading itself. Learn it. Like I said, if youre willing to spend $150, go spend it on a MS64 Morgan, or maybe even a 65 in a PCGS slab if you can find one for that price, and compare it to yours. Another tip I learned years back, coin grading books are good for the basics but if you can find some older Heritage Auctions coin catalogues, they are full of pictures. See if you can test yourself with what some of those coins graded and learn that way as well. After all, the grade on the PCGS or NGC slab is just someone else's opinion. Those catalogues look something like this:
