How much is too much humidity? Tips for cutting down humidity...?

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by Michelle_7728, Jan 6, 2019.

  1. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    We always have to keep in mind that each coin is unique, and that the reason for this coin or that coin toning and others not toning, when all are stored in the same place, is almost always because the coins that are toning were exposed to something before you got them that the other coins were not exposed to.

    In other words, it's not your storage method causing the problem.
     
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  3. Jaelus

    Jaelus The Hungarian Antiquarian Supporter

    Wow yeah obviously don't keep coins outside.

    Leaving them on a table in your living room is a vastly superior choice...
     
  4. JPeace$

    JPeace$ Coinaholic

    Thanks. Understand. I was a little surprised when I saw it. Not terrible, but not what I wanted to see. It's just bullion, so I'm not all that upset about it. I just thought I would share my experience.

    When I bought the Intercept Box, it did mention having the shield become less effective over time.
     
  5. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Well, one thing has to be understood and simply accepted - there is nothing we can do to stop toning. Every coin there is begins to tone the moment it is made. And that toning will continue throughout the life of the coin until eventually the coin is destroyed. Now depending on conditions that could be in a short time, relatively speaking, or a very, very long time.

    The best we can ever hope for is to slow toning down as much as possible, and we do that with proper storage.

    As for the Intercept Boxes, there are a couple of different ones, individual coin boxes and slab boxes, and I'm not sure which ones you're referring to. I personally have never used the individual boxes so I can offer no personal opinion on them.

    But I did use the slab boxes for a long time. I stored coins in them for well over a decade and never once saw any toning that was detectable by me. But I must also comment that I utilized proper storage methods. Individual hard plastic holders - Air-Tites or slabs, rechargeable silica gel packs which were checked and recharged as needed, only inert materials inside the safe, and a high quality safe that did not produce interior moisture on its own.

    And it must also be understood that each and every individual home is a unique environment, and environment plays a huge part, a very huge part, when it comes to toning - in either direction.

    Bottom line there are literally thousands of variables, and each and every one of them will affect toning - one way or the other.
     
  6. JPeace$

    JPeace$ Coinaholic

    I agree with your statement that I bolded and underlined. Agree too that you can only hope to mitigate it or retard it's progression.

    The box I purchased would hold 2x2's. It has two rows.

    Some of the silver bullion that I had in non-PVC plastic flips started toning. Others in the same flips did not. Most of the coins I had in the box were in air tites/plastic capsules. I used this box for misc. items. When I bought the box, I read the note that came with it. I was just sharing/paraphrasing what I read. I was also sharing my experience.

    Just like you mentioned, there are thousands of variables. Why did some of the bullion pieces (from Canadian Royal Mint) start toning while others from the same mint did not? (rhetorical question) They were stored exactly the same way. No way to explain it. Maybe they were exposed to something prior to my putting them in the flips and Intercept box, who can know.

    My main point was that you can still never be too careful.
     
  7. Bambam8778

    Bambam8778 Well-Known Member

    I use an Eva dry in my safe and it will bring the humidity down to around 35 or so. Summer time is honestly a struggle. Stays around 50.
     
  8. Good Cents

    Good Cents Well-Known Member

    Would you or anyone happen to know if any Monster Boxes from any country are Air-Tight or close to Air-Tight? I'm trying to figure out a storage solution that helps protect from humidity, in addition to zip-lock bags.

    I'm thinking food storage containers might be more Air-Tight than a Monster Box. What do you think?

    I saw Provident has a nice, patented Monster Box that doesn't let water in, but the Purple color is much too garish and bright. I need a neutral color.
     
  9. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    No they are not, not even close.

    In simple terms there's not much available to the average person that is airtight. No coin holder is, absolutely none of them are. Neither are Ziplock bags, or Tupperware and RubberMaid containers.

    Part of the problem is that just all plastics are air permeable, meaning air goes right through the face of the plastic itself. It passes through slowly but it most definitely passes right through the plastic. Even so those are about the best options we have.

    And using glass containers, well glass works if an effective seal is used in conjunction with it but glass has its own share of downsides like it is easily broken. But yes it does work. Mason Jars or Ball Jars are the two most common and readily available sources for truly airtight containers.

    But about all you can do is to place the coins in individual Air-Tite brand coin holders, then place those in the jars before you seal them up. But that's not a storage method that many wish to pursue.
     
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  10. Good Cents

    Good Cents Well-Known Member

    Thank you so much for explaining that!

    As if the silver isn't heavy enough - Ball Jars! Talk about a workout! :woot:

    I'm afraid I may be just a little too clumsy for being trusted with not turning glass jars into a pile of broken glass jars! :eek:

    Okay, so, may I ask what the next best solution is for long term silver storage?

    Although plastic isn't good for long term, how often do you think I would need to change the ziplock bags if I double-bagged them and threw in 3M anti-tarnish strips, or if I wrapped the air-tite capsules in something like anti-tarnish silver cloth, such as what they sell here and then put that into ziplocks and all that into a monster box and then putting the monster box into a plain old brown box:

    https://smile.amazon.com/Anti-Tarni...SU/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

    Would putting all that into a plain old brown packing box be detrimental in the long term even while it's wrapped in air-tite capsules, anti-tarnish cloth, double ziplocks and a monster box (or rubbermaid)?


     
  11. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    I pretty well described the best option there is in post #24 of this thread.

    Yes, it would absolutely be detrimental. You don't want anything near your coins that is not inert. And "anything" most definitely includes cardboard boxes of any kind ! Paper and cardboard products are about as bad for your coins as it gets. The only exceptions are those listed as being archival quality - and archival quality paper products are very few and far between. And as far as I know, none exist in the form of cardboard.

    I've posted more times than I can count on what constitutes proper coin storage. A simple search using "proper storage" as your key words and my user name will allow you to read just about everything I've written about it.
     
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  12. Good Cents

    Good Cents Well-Known Member

    Hi GDJMSP,

    So, I did a search under your handle and "proper storage" and have been reading A LOT of what you've written over the years.

    Some questions:

    You wrote about some materials being inert and to keep everything non-inert away from coin storage.

    1 - There are tubes for storing Air-tite capsules in. They are clear and have lids that are either red or black. They come in sizes A,T,H,I, etc. which corresponds with the sizes of the Air-tite capsules. Can I trust that these tubes AND their red and black lids are inert?

    2 - Labeling The Tubes For Identification - Even just to label the tubes with numbers "Tube 1, Tube 2" etc. with separate list of what's each tube in another location.

    2A - After reading your prior posts I learned that using paper is out of the question because it is not inert so I can't label the tubes using paper.

    2B - What I've done in the past has been labeling the tubes using a Brother P-Touch Labeler with their Brother TZE Label Tapes. How can I find out if there is some component in those tapes that negatively affect the air in the ziplocks and/or container and/or jar? Chemistry was not my strong suit. I can't seem to figure out what I should be looking for on the Brother TZE Label Tapes "Product Safety Data Sheet":

    https://www.ptouchdirect.com/content/MSDS-TZTAPES.pdf

    Another description I found on the Brother TZE label tapes with very basic info describes them as containing PET Polyethylene and Acrylic. Do you know if those are inert?


    2C - What about using a Sharpie marker on the tubes? Is the ink inert?


    3a - Is the "Foam" that Air-Tites uses for its ring-capsules inert?

    3b - Can said "Foam" be used as filler inside glass mason jars to prevent everything from jostling around?

    That's all my questions for the moment.

    Am now off to read more of what you wrote in the past about proper storage.

    Thank you!


     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2019
  13. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    1 - I don't know.
    2a - you answered your own question
    2b - the labels themselves should be fine but the glue on them I'm not so sure about
    2c - I don't know
    3a - yes
    3b - yes, if you can get your hands on that same foam, personally I wouldn't bother with it - but that's me.

    For the answers I don't know there are 2 or 3 chemist who are members here, perhaps they will see and answer your questions. @desertgem @Kentucky
     
  14. desertgem

    desertgem Senior Errer Collecktor Supporter

    Somewhere on a container, there should be a little triangle with arrow points and a number like the one below.
    upload_2019-2-10_9-39-57.jpeg

    Although 1,2,4,5 are considered safe, I would not use #4 because of its structural weakness and usually opaque. Most prefer #1 (trade name mylar), for sheet like use, (Flips, and such), but I wouldn't use if the coin will be frequently removed due to possible micro scratches. #2 is more rigid and used for stiffer ( usually colored) containers, and #5 is also considered chemically inert. Over time, if stored in harsher environments, such as large variations in temperature, most can deteriorate over long term. Some coin tubes I have are stiff mylar transparent bottoms with a HDPE flexible top. Any holder ( most) that has an opening ...flips, tubes or holders with a reversible seal , sonic seals if handled often ( slabs) , can develop problems from air entering microscopically....That is why desiccator devices to remove moisture from storage , ion scavengers such as the sacrificial zincolns , and multiple stage bagging with both are required for very long term storage. If you want more details on the various acronyms such as PETE, there are many sites and details on the web. IMO, Jim

    p.s. It helps to live in a desert area :)
     
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  15. Good Cents

    Good Cents Well-Known Member

    Wow! Fantastic info! Thank you very much!!!!
     
  16. Clawcoins

    Clawcoins Damaging Coins Daily

    My containers are #5
    Just checked a set
    Thanks for the info @desertgem
     
  17. Jennifer Morton

    Jennifer Morton New Member

    I just moved from a dry environment to a very humid environment, been here eight months, what is the best way to keep coins protected from the humidity without keeping a dehumidifier plugged in day and night, silicon packages, a safety deposit box, a glass container in a very dark place, I’ll be mortified if my coins get ruined.
     
  18. Clawcoins

    Clawcoins Damaging Coins Daily

    So you want to dehumidify, without using the tools to dehumidify?

    move to a dry environment ?
     
  19. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Howdy Jennifer -

    Best is a hard thing to define. If you'll read through this entire thread you'll see much that is discussed regarding different methods of proper coin storage. And quite frankly you're the only one who can decide what's best or good enough for you. Do you utilize every method that's been discussed - is that best ? Yes, but also maybe no, at least not in your case.

    For example, you said "without keeping a dehumidifier plugged in day and night". I mean rather obviously it would be better if you did that because each and every step that you take to protect your coins makes it better for your coins - each and every one - when it comes to protecting them. But I can tell you that I personally never did it. For me, using silica gel packs and checking and recharging them regularly did the job. But would it have been better to use one ? Without a doubt - yes !

    But you must also realize and consider that just because not using one in my house worked, that does not mean that not using one in your house will work. In your house you may need that extra step. Or you may not.

    Now I'll be as helpful to you as I can, answer any question you care to ask, but you have to understand, there are literally a thousand variables involved for each and every individual collector there is.
     
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