I Need Help With This

I still have a little difficulty with doubling and I do have to consult everyone here on the thread from time to time. @paddyman98 was just trying to help you out a little with a little Lingo. I have learned (and fast might I add) that using the proper terminology in this hobby is a necessity. You'll get there some day!

 

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I know Bam, Paddy and I talked and smoothed things out. I was just having a bad day and it's been a hard past few weeks in general. I probably need to lay the microscope down and watch something on TV here soon...

 

Tell me about your microscope. Model, how easy is it to work with, take photos, etc. Can you scan coins very fast? Mine is very difficult to focus on each coin and search very fast. I have buckets and buckets of coins. In years past I kept a lot of coins but didn't search them for errors or varieties. I am just now doing that. I would appreciate any advice from anyone of the art of speedy scanning.

 

Here's some more help .
If your collecting coin from the single squeeze era, there's only 2 classes of doubled dies .

Class 8
http://www.doubleddie.com/203990.html

Class 4
http://www.doubleddie.com/203906.html

 

Ok .
I'll help with this question too .
I'm going to use coneca site to do this .

Lets start with LIBERTY .
This is class 8 doubling .
Notice how the doubling shifts from left to right, which leaves a notch in the upper right hand corner .
http://varietyvista.com/01d LC Doubled Dies Vol 4/2009PFYDDO001 cent.htm

Now lets do the date .
This is also class 8 doubling .
Notice how the doubling again, shifts from left to right .
Which again, leaves notching .
http://varietyvista.com/01d LC Doubled Dies Vol 4/2009PFYDDO002 cent.htm

 

When your ready for extra thickness, I'll help with that too .

 

Sorry for the late response Inspector. I use an Andonstar USB microscope (50x I believe). It's very easy to use and gives clear, sharp, and defined pictures for the most part. You just plug it into your computer, install a good camera app, and stick something that you want to see up close under the microscope. It brings it up on the computer screen for you. You have knobs: One for focus and one for zoom. Their customer support is amazing by the way. I purchased a faulty AS microscope on Ebay that crapped out after an hour of use (showed a green screen and never worked again). I contacted customer support and they sent me a brand new one free of charge without even asking me to send in the broken one. They (their products) give you fairly high quality detail for the price, which isn't an outrageous amount of money ($50-$80 on eBay).

 

For pictures, you zoom your microscope in and focus it to your liking until you have the picture that you want. Afterwards, you will move your arrow on the computer to click the camera button and the picture gets saved into your gallery

 

Good morning Edwin!

 

Thank you Rick. I'm going to research class 4 & 8 and jot some notes down. Once I have a better understanding of the single squeeze doubled dies (and have enough notes to cover those classes completely), then I'll need your help with extra quickness doubling. I appreciate your help.

 

Wow... I have been doing this wrong all along. Getting into error hunting, I thought "I can look at a picture (on Wexler's) and tell if my coin is doubled". Oh boy was I wrong. @paddyman98 I'm sorry again about the misunderstanding the other day, I have and always will appreciate any helpful advice and pointers from someone who is more experienced in this type of hobby than I am.

 

The more you get into varieties, the better you'll get .
Here's a thread I just posted on . First thing I did was match the characteristics of the " 9 " in the date .

As you can see, it doesn't match the known example I posted .
https://www.cointalk.com/threads/1936-dot-cent.329274/

 

@Rick Stachowski I can clearly see the difference when looking at them side by side; but to the untrained eye, something like that could come and go without you even realizing that you had anything... After reading up on the different classes of doubled dies, it makes me question what I could possibly have stashed away in bags. I bought (literally, for a cheap price considering how much I got) 10,000 wheat pennies/200 rolls from an old man named Mr. John (which set a fire and got me into this hobby). Some of the lamination errors, improper alloy mixes, and cud errors that I've found out of his collection are nothing less than amazing (zebra pennies/ volcano cracks). I've found so many little bitty deformities on lettering and numbers (dots, squiggles, die breaks, cuds, extra thickness, etc etc you name it), I tossed all of those pennies into a bag labeled "Possible Errors" without having any idea that they could really be something (or any knowledge of what they are with me being a beginner at the time). I've got a lot of stuff to show you and @paddyman98. Once I do get much better at this, I want to send both of you a handpicked roll for being patient and helping me learn (along with a bright, shiny wheat that looks like it just came from the mint).

 

Thanks for the info J S I appreciate the feedback. Mine operates the same way but it is very clumsy and the light won't stay on. It is a Leuchtturm.

 

Try Andonstar, great brand and great company. You'll like their microscopes

 

Thanks for the help JS. I'll look into that.

 

Good to hear you got back on track with daddy. Sorry you had such a bad week. Now I'm going to check out that Adonstar!

 

No one was criticizing your grammar. Saying "double" instead of doubled isn't a grammar issue, it's a term issue. The die is "doubled". If you're going to ask questions you need to have thicker skin. How one reads the written word isn't always how it was intended.

 

Sorry, I meant paddy. Stupid autocorrect!