Looks About Uncirculated to me; perhaps AU50 to AU53. According to Numismedia, its value is thereby $0.02.
The easiest way to submit a coin for grading would bebto partner up with a coin dealer and give that dealer a small fee to send it in with his submissions. Expect to pay in the neighborhood of fifty to seventy five dollars depending on that dealers overhead. The hard news is that unless there is a sentimental value attached to your cent, it would be a costly and losing proposition to submit your piece.
I agree with the other posters; EF45. There are several good guides you can use. I generally use the ANA guidebook but there are many other good sources. A good scotch can improve the grade.
I don't think he's actually considering sending it in, or asking how to do so. I take his question to mean that he wants someone to explain the grading process to him - as in how would one go about grading this coin and what makes it one grade as opposed to another ? In simple terms Bobby the answer to your question is this. You first have to be familiar with what an uncirculated example of that coin, in that date and mint, actually looks like. Then, you compare your coin to that coin and judge how much wear if any your coin actually has. And you judge the amount of wear by the amount of detail remaining on the coin. The less detail it has, the more wear and the lower the grade. That's the simple explanation. In reality there is a lot to know before one can truly learn how to grade coins. You have to be familiar with the quality of luster and quality of strike for different dates and different mints. Then you have to know what breaks in the luster look like, (breaks in luster indicate the very beginning stages of wear). And from there it is a graduating scale descending downwards - more wear equals lower grades. To grade uncirculated examples only there is lot more to know. You have to learn about contact marks, hairlines, and eye appeal. How many contact marks are allowed for each grade, where the contact marks are on the coin as some locations count more than others, how severe the contact marks are. Same things for hairlines. And that's just the beginning. To put things a different perspective for you so that you might better understand just how difficult it is to learn how to grade coins accurately and correctly consider this. You no doubt already know that different people in different trades get paid a lot of money to do what they do for a living. And as a general rule the more money one gets paid the more difficult it is to do what they do. Well, people who grade coins for a living, the really good ones can make over $200,000 a year. And some of those just starting out get paid $100,000 and up.
Thanks what I meant about the grading I just needed my own example its kinda hard to compare something online to something i had... I just used a bad example
Bobby that's a problem that everybody faces, especially when they are starting out. That's because doing it that way requires a whole different skill set completely separate from grading - you have to learn how to interpret pictures before it can do you any real good. And the way you deal with it is to get yourself some books on grading and start there. You use the written descriptions in the books for each grade while looking at coins in hand that you do have. That part alone takes some time to learn, but once you do then you have to start looking at coins you don't have. And you can do that by going to coin shops and going to coin shows. You can learn more by going to a single coin show and studying the coins you see than you can in may years of looking at pictures. But it only becomes of benefit when you already have the basic knowledge behind you. And the more coins you look at the more knowledge you gain. Once you gain enough, then pictures start to be beneficial and you can learn even more. Like any education learning to grade coins requires a series of steps that must be taken. And just like any series of steps you can't skip any, you have to take them all one at a time.
