I've been doing a little internet surfing to see if this is counterfeit or not. I don't have any literature pertaining to Pillar Dollars and I'm not sure if "Swamper Bob"(aka Robert Gurney) is a member of CoinTalk, but I would like to get educated on this particular coin. By all accounts, to me, this coin seems authentic. I do have limited knowledge with these particular coins . The weight is approximately 28 grams. Any direction would be helpful...oh yea and opinions please.
There's nothing that catches my eye right off to make me suspect it, but that doesn't really mean much as some counterfeits were quite good. Do you own this coin or are you just thinking about it ? I ask because if you own it an exact weight would be helpful, even if not necessarily definitive. The maximum permissible weight for an 8 reales was 27.2638 grams, the minimum was 26.8646 grams. So if it's within that range - it might be genuine. Of course you could always just buy the book - https://www.amazon.com/Counterfeit-...990802906/ref=mt_hardcover?_encoding=UTF8&me=
I would have to agree... definitely looks authentic. Looking at Numista.com, YOUR example is much better grade than the one they have shown from Heritage Auctions. Looking on Coinquest, they show examples of authentic and counterfeit - http://coinquest.com/cgi-bin/cq/coins?main_coin=6357 Yours looks good to me! - just my opinion, though. You really have to get it graded in order to be 100% positive.
Yeah it looks authentic to me but that's only based on some late 18th century 8 Reales coins I have and researched.
I really appreciate all the feedback! I ordered a gram scale from Amazon and should have it Friday. It would be great if it were authentic but I have my doubts because of the appearance (almost to pretty) of the item and the weight at 1 ounce. Although that weight is on a postal scale, it's not a gram scale and is certainly not calibrated. As soon as I get a definitive weight, I'll post it on here. Thanks again!
One troy ounce of silver is 31.1 grams. A more accurate scale will help and a weight of 27 grams would be a good sign. (27.0674g)
Most postal scales only weigh to within a 10th of an ounce and that's roughly 3 g. Much too crude for coin authentication.
Well, I think it's good news! I weighed the coin today, three times, and the weight is 26.86 grams! So it looks like I have a decent coin! Thanks everyone!
That's only one test. It may confirm that the coin is silver. Which would tend to lean towards real. The only time counterfeiters use silver in a fake is for a super rare coin. I don't believe this date is very rare, so it's prob. real. But you would need an expert to say for sure. GL.
The diameter was 39 mm (measured with cm ruler not calipers). at what speed will the magnet slide if it's 90% silver?
So measuring with calipers gave me an indication of 38 mm. I believe It also passed the magnet test. I used a neodymium magnet and the magnet gently slid down the face of the coin. Not fast, just nice and easy.
Sorry but that's not even close to true. Think about it a minute. If they use silver, and get the weight right, and make a decent quality fake - what can they sell that coin for ? Let's see, silver's what, $16-$17 an oz ? And if they can get $300 for the coin ? That's a minimum of 15 times their investment. Seems like a pretty good profit margin to me. There is only one way to authenticate a coin, that's to have somebody who is qualified to do it - do it. Everything else is still just guesswork.
I'm sorry but it is absolutely close to being true. My point is they are not using $15 worth of silver on a $25 coin. ( I quickly looked up this coin and saw $27.50) A counterfeiter is not using silver in a $27.50 coin. Your own example supports my argument. Thank you for agreeing with me.
coinquest.com site seems to be down and has been for a while now does anyone know if it will be back?
I went through a similar exercise with a raw 8 Reales, with a CT thread about a year ago. After various opinions I was advised to email Daniel Sedwick who is a top specialist in Spanish silver. My coin is lower grade (VF or so) and came in a tad underweight, but Dan still gave it a thumbs up. One of the diagnostics I learned was to look at the edge milling. In one of your photos there is a "seam" where it doesn't line up. For your coin to be genuine there should be a corresponding seam exactly opposite (180 degrees) the one in your photo.
Back when this was posted I was tempted to reply beyond what I did with the 'roll eyes' smiley but I refrained. But seeing it again .......... I could say you have much to learn, or I could say there is much you are not aware of, and either would be reason for your comments, your way of thinking. But in any case I'll just explain. Do you know what the most commonly counterfeited coin is, ever was ? The 1 cent coin. Only it was not counterfeited to fool collectors, it was counterfeited for use in commerce. Do you know what the most commonly counterfeited note is or ever was ? The one dollar bill, again for use in commerce. And of course you'll be skeptical and ask why would anybody ever do that ? The answer is simplicity itself - it's because you never get caught. And you never get caught because nobody ever thinks twice about pennies or 1 dollar bills being fakes, and so they readily accept them. And the counterfeiter laughs all the way to the bank. Now might say OK, but what does that have to do with what we're talking about here ? Well, there's more than one type of counterfeiter, meaning they have different reasons for doing what they do. But their products are still counterfeits. So allow me to give you an another example. For literally centuries the most widely most readily accepted coin in the world was the Netherlands gold ducat. So the Russian Royal Mint decided to make their own Netherlands gold ducats and they counterfeited them by the millions upon millions. And they did this for 150 years ! And in some years the number of counterfeits produced dwarfed the number of genuine coins that were produced that year. And every single coin was the correct fineness, and weight as the genuine ducats, but every single one of them was still a counterfeit, and more importantly still is a counterfeit. And they are such good counterfeits that even the TPGs, all of them, and yes that includes NGC and PCGS, authenticate and slab them as being genuine - but each one is a counterfeit. Add to this that in the 50', 60's and 70's there were huge factories in the middle east that did nothing but produce counterfeit coins of basically every nation on earth. The size and scale of these factories make today's Chinese operations pale in comparison. And the coins produced by these factories were all made of the correct size, weight, and fineness. And the coins were so good, of such high quality that they ever fooled the actual mints of the countries who produced the genuine coins. And of course these folks who owned these factories made literal fortunes. My point in all of this is simple - don't think for even 1 second that just because a coin is the correct size, weight, and fineness that it cannot be a counterfeit. Not only do counterfeiters do this, they do and have done it rather often ! There is only one way to authentic coins and that is with die diagnostics. Size, weight, and fineness are quite often meaningless.