FYI, I still get Canadian pennies in my change. Lately 1960s and earlier in the Detroit, Michigan area.
I'd look for any higher grade ones pre 1940. Anything with a mint mark prior to 1930 will have some value; especially teens. Now if you have a 1955 DDO then you hit the jackpot.
What ever so tired of people like you telling me what is what, I was simply trying to say there is an honest seller...but Oh no lets make a full day of bashing out of it. Please leave me alone I am done.
I don't "collect" pennies/cents. I just store them except for a just a handful in my coin collection which are early large cents, half cents and early US cents. so .. not gonna look for DDO this or that. I'll post more to my "pocket change" thread as I come across them.
Lots of luck finding such coins in bulk - you best best is to attend yard sales in older neighborhoods - ask the sellers if they have any old copper cents stashed away in penny jars, etc. that they might want to exchange for paper money - often, they won't have any on display but will have some old unsearched wheaties (and other good coins) inside the house - it's worth a try
Okay... fair enough. Hmm... this is, for all sense and purposes, the very definition of salting, sir. While he may not be salting individual rolls, by your own admission he is, most simply, salting many at the same time. If you've enjoyed it, that's great and is really all that matters. However, please do not try to present this as something it most certainly is not. In fact, what you're explaining is a fairly old means of liquidating and achieving higher prices for lesser coins that are difficult to sell individually on their own merits. I used to know a few different guys who would always be on the lookout for coins to do just this with, and I can promise you that quality wasn't of any concern; only price was, and they were more than happy to buy total dogs as long as they were cheap. If I had to make an educated guess, I'd say that chances are significantly greater that you'll never be able to recoup anywhere near what you've paid (unless resorting to similar selling tactics) than of ever breaking even as you've claimed. Some folks like to play the lottery, and as long as they understand their odds, there's nothing wrong with it. The same can be said for what you're doing, but don't get upset when others disagree and/or wish to point out the realities behind it.
This reminds me of the guy that would put a quarter eagle in a batch of cents and then sell the rolls with the buyer hoping they'd get THE roll containing it. Of course nobody buying a roll would know whether or not the roll containing the gold piece was sold (or if one ever contained one).
Essentially, yes... the only difference is as stated in my earlier post. I was trying to be nice when describing past experiences dealing with the very type that sell such things, but the reality is that they're every bit the black eye upon this hobby as one that cracks dreck to sell raw as problem-free, or any of the other near countless shams designed to remove money from the pockets of the uninitiated. If anything, I do hope our friend will take the time to have someone look at his "finds" and apply a realistic value before he spends any more money with this seller. Off the top of my head I cannot recall a single example of someone who buys such things truly ending up ahead, and highly doubt he's the exception.
I couldn't agree more. One may think they come out ahead if they over grade their raw coins and determine their value using the Red Book.
And that is most likely it. We may joke about it here, but there really is (or at least was) an incredible number of people who will simply pick up whatever guide, find their coin, and look only at the number is furthest to the right before proclaiming that's exactly what they have.
Well, I went through them. For anyone who is interested in distribution analysis, this is what I found: 1 @ 1920, 1928, 1929, 1930 and 1935 4 @ 1939 2 @ 1940 4 @ 1941 5 @ 1942, 1 @ 1942D 1 @ 1943 14 @ 1944, 1 @ 1944D, 1 @ 1944S 10 @ 1945, 1 @ 1945D, 1 @ 1945S 7 @ 1946, 4 @ 1946D 2 @ 1947, 1 @ 1947D 3 @ 1948 2 # 1950 5 @ 1951, 4 @ 1951D, 1 @ 1951S 5 @ 1952D, 1 @ 1952S 4 @1953, 9 @ 1953D 4 @ 1954D 2 @ 1955, 4 @ 1955D 1 @ 1956, 8 @ 1956D 2 @ 1957, 5 @ 1957D 3 @ 1958, 2 @ 1958D and 1 @ 1953 with the word 'MAX' stamped on the back Unfortunately, no 1955 DDOs were seen. I guess it should be no surprise that they were almost all 1940s and 1950s, but I am a bit surprised at the number of 1944s, 1945s and 1953s relative to the overall. They were all worn about what you would expect from being in circulation for about 20 years or more, but there were a few that looked pretty decent.