In my personal opinion about holed coins, if you wanted to get the coin graded, I would go for the problem-free coin, but if I liked the holed coin, I'd choose it. It really depends if you mind if it's problem free or not.
It's a long story, especially for the trade dollar (1878-P). The Charlotte dollar was carved into a love token on the obverse), but that left the important stuff on the reverse -- 1851-C. I got the trade dollar because it was masquerading as a common date in a large junk lot -- in other words, by luck -- and I got the Charlotte dollar because I was the first one to find the new BIN listing (so, again, luck). I don't spend much time camping on the new BIN listings on eBay any more. I've learned not to lose sleep over the missed opportunities.
Thanks. Still not sure how I missed you selling it on eBay. When did you? Sorry, I don't know how to write without using this thread.
So I'm doing a 7070 us type album and I decided that for the small coins that I'm not horribly interested in and big ticket coins that I'll take holed as long as key details are still there. I like that I won't have to spend as much on coins types im not crazy about, but that I'll still be able to show them off and explain the difference. Like I already have two seated halves with holes and they're about VF 35. I paid 12 for one and 20 for the other. If they didn't have holes I'd be paying 100 each but I instead get them cheap and get to enjoy the features I don't think I'll ever buy big ticket problem coins, just small cheapos if they speak to me ha
The sale was in June 2015, I think. For future reference, you can start a new thread by clicking on the US Coins Forum link at the top of the page, then clicking the Post New Thread button (you can also navigate to a different forum, then post your thread there). If you want to communicate privately with another member, click on their name to bring up their profile, then click on Start a Conversation.