I am trying to put an evaluation, on this coin. I bought it because I liked it, the dealer had details/scratched written on the flip. It was an honest sale and I didn't sqwock at his price, of 45$ I like it and the old cleaning doesn't bother me. What would you grade it? Another set of pics, Not as flashy,
I see a LOT of hairlines on the obverse in front of the face and on the neck. To me it's definitely a DETAILS coin. If that's correct then a grade becomes secondary.
I like the high points being visible and especially the liberty being clear. It has had usage and i would grade one side a VF and the other a/EF.... So if you chopped that grade in half, i would say it is a true good/VF in my opinion. Tallons on the eagle are not visble and that could be from the toning as the pic is not the best.... However if you wanted to sell it at some later date, g/VF would be what i would grade it at.... Have a read of both EF and VF in the page under here and you will see why i said my grade... Ine side is better than the other. BTW, try to be honest with yourself with grading...dont boost it up as it simply will not sell... If you grade it right, then all will fall into place.
I forgot to say that there really isn't much wear, only a weak strike. The coin has plenty of luster left. Its weak but still there.
You grade your way and i will grade mine...how is that.... But i will not buy overgraded items...have a nice day
I forgit to also say that the coin is like being a little bit pregnant...Either one is or they are not...There is no weak strike, there is wear and is clealy visible. Especially as the eagles tallons are all gone...Again have a nice day
If that works for you, then that's fine. However, there are a number of newer collectors looking for information and the CT threads come up quite a bit on search engines. I would recommend that when offering advice, please stick to the established grading norms, such as the ANA Grading standards, PCGS, or other reputable systems (EAC standards for early copper, etc). This will keep confusion to a minimum. One area of advanced collecting is knowing and understanding the striking characteristics of specific dates and mints. For example, there are some Buffalo Nickel dates that have many MS examples that do not exhibit a full horn. Since the grading standards say a full horn is required for VF coins, should these be graded F-15 even though the left the mint like that? I see nothing wrong with an experienced collector using his own standards to determine eye appeal and value, but I think we should stick too the established standards when advising newer collectors. Eventually, some of them will become experienced collectors and understand the complicated world of grading coins.
I'm no expert, however, not a pretty coin IMO. The shield details are strong, and I agree, there is a good strike on obverse. But Yuck.
Both you know and i know that full horn is needed on the buffalo nickel. However i also add that the eye and ruffles on the back must also be visible to be anywhere near the top gradings ... I have in my library a 2009 issue of KP david C harpers Red book in soft cover...In the index it shows nowhere and no page to go to for grading coins.... Therefore i had to revert to the Australian book that had it all in there an is what i scanned earlier.... On top of that oldhoopster...You stated this!!! "However, there are a number of newer collectors looking for information and the CT threads come up quite a bit on search engines. " if they want to learn properly, then buy a world krause coin book and read up on the grading.... Any fool can grade up but it takes someone that knows his/her work to grade exact.... Place yourself as a buyer.... Would you pay top price for an item that does not have high points??? Not everything is a weak strike and i do believe those 2 words have been taken way out of context these days...Have a nice day
XF details. $45 is VF retail, so maybe a little high, but you like the coin, and at the end of the day, that's what matters.
I honestly cannot place a price in this as no matter what one says it is, the customer will always say ot is not and downgrade it. it is the nature of the beast... The value is not $45.00 but what a person is willing to pay for it...OIO
Hope some of the following info helps clarify things. A Guidebook of United States Coins published by Whitman, is considered the standard reference for US coins and is commonly called the “Redbook”. Many times, this is the first (and sometimes only) reference book that collectors buy. There is a short grading guide listed for each design type, as well as a section in the introduction regarding grading in general. North American Coins and Prices by Krause Publishing IS NOT the Redbook. You may want to familiarize yourself with the Redbook and other references such as the Official American Numismatic Association Grading Standards for United States Coins before steering new collectors of US Coins into lesser known, generalized grading criteria. Understanding striking characteristics of individual dates and mints is an important subject for specialists. As mentioned, issues such as some Buffalo nickels (I think 1926-S is an example) are rarely found with a full horn in Mint State. You can pontificate all you want, but these coins are still graded MS and are sold for MS money. Also, take a look at some Standing Liberty Quarters such as the 1921 and 1923-S in XF. Lots of partial dates out there. The good news is that I know who to ask for info on grading my Australian sets. (where's the kangaroo emoji?)
Quite honestly when responding in the "details discount" thread I didn't notice scratches. I thought the reverse toning was considered ED.
You do as you wish hoopster with what ever book you wantto .But at the very end of things, if the price does not meet with the buyers price they want to pay, you will be hoarding a lot of coins...Does that mean we will all see you on the TV programme called Hoarders??? have a lovely day
