American Silver Eagle Proof PF69 or 70?

a thread about sausage gumbo and Proof ASEs ... now I've seen it all

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

Hey, don't knock it until you sautee an AU58 Morgan in it. Get that cherished "GUMBO SLIDER toning" designation on the slab. Huge cult following in the HooDoo subculture.

 

Do any of you really believe there is a difference between PF69 and 70 that anyone can identify?

 

This info comes directly from the owner of my local coinshop - a large dealer with a large online presence also.

I asked him about the TPGs and their legitimacy with ASEs.

He told me he was curious when he sent in a monster box of ASEs, that they came back with a constant ratio of 20% MS70s. He told me he poleed other large dealers he commonly associates with. He said they all said the same thing. He told me to start looking at slabbed MS70s, you can find marks yourself on them. I have even found them with small rim dings.

He is totally convinced they simply take out 20% random from the box and slab then as MS70s.

My opinion for them doing this is because it keeps the business going. More collectors are willing to gamble they get an MS70 if there is a decent amount of them on the market. In other words, its good business sense for the TPGs. They know the little guy will likely not find out, and even when they do, there are enough ardent followers of the TPGs to ridicule the idea.

 

Yes, there is a difference. But having the TPG agree with you is another story.

 

There's no difference between PF69 and PF70.

You've been sold a bill of goods.

 

Not yet. I bought it unslabbed in a blue fuzzy case.
Actually, the difference would be 1, no?

"These go to 11..."

 

I believe that there is a difference, but I can't see it... so I would opt for a cheaper 69 instead of a more expensive 70. Plus if your coin decides to develop spots later it's less upsetting if it happens to a 69 than if it happens to a 70.

 

I already own this. I got it on eBay ungraded. The difference between a pf69 and a 70 for this particular coin is 10-fold 30 bucks and change as opposed to 300 in change so the question is whether or not to gamble the NGC fees against whether or not it might grade a 70. From what I understand everybody telling me here it's probably not worth doing and I might just hang on to it and enjoy having a nice coin instead of trying to take a profit. And hey it's always worth melt, or in a pinch a quarter, PLUS I can keep the fuzzy blue case and the capsule, maybe use that as a cookie cutter or a slider burger maker...

 

Even if what you're saying was true, it wouldn't be random; the chances of a dog are simply too high.

 

Yeah, and I'm not much of a gambler. Hmm... add up the fees to slab 10 of them, compare that to the gained value of 20% being 70's, the lost value for the 8 69s, might be close to a wash in the end, might it? Funny how stuff like that works out. Damn shame they've done this to such a gorgeous coin, too. I think people would buy this design at 90% silver, or at least I would. Hell, imagine if Ikes were .999, they'd STILL be butt ugly.

 

Who says they can? Take some 69's crack them out and resubmit them raw and some of them will probably come back as 70's. Take some 70's, crack them out and resubmit them and most of them will probably come back as 69's.

 

Remind you of anything?

 

sounds about right.

 

What you have is a proof 69. I'm not a expert on grading these modern coins but based on those pic its a 69.

 

Those photos aren't great. But there seem to be enough scuffs and nicks that it won't come back 70.
The gumbo I make includes sausage, shrimp and chicken.