1995 ddo variety or I have crosseyes @ 2am

Looks like good splitting on a few places in Liberty, date and IGWT. Or do I need to shut em down before I have permanent crossed eye looks like the same image 20 x. I tried different angles, magnifications, and different photo editing choices to see if any help with quality. Keeper or md?

 

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A 1995 is Copper Plated Zinc. It has a plating issue which is due to Die Deterioration Doubling.. Not a DDO

 

I had a feeling paddy would get me first. Any time I post and say is it this or do I need to take a long walk off a short bridge, crosseyed, etc.. You seem to grab that knife and twist. Oh and give it a little bump to boot. Ha. Thanks. . I though it was something other than ddo because definitely no so split on the G or O. The hunt continues. Maybe if I slap my head my eyes will strdaighen out.

 

I am not a DDO Variety specialist. I do know that the true 1995 DDO looks like this

 

Did you see the 1909 vdb I found. I know its common but in its condition would there be any added value at all above face?

 

That's the same reference I used. Didn't know if there were other varieties of it so I always double check. Keeps things interesting. Someone has to keep you guys on your toes.

 

I'm going to do some digging on the varieties. Do I remember correctly are you a nickel guy? I posted a nickel on the wrong thread before that seems to be missing clad layer but one side is odd. Looks painted on but it's not. If not do you know who would be best to share clad error with?

 

Impossible. Nickels do not have a clad layer. Only Quarters, Dimes, Halves have a Clad layer with a copper core.

 

Well the top layer o metal. You know what I meant even though I obviously do not

 

I will start thread with it now though I think it may have been buried a while.

 

http://varietyvista.com/

http://doubleddie.com/

http://coppercoins.com/

Bookmark these and perhaps you'll try a much more effective approach like, researching which attributed variety you think it is, then try and show it with your photographs, include link and even nice over/under comparisons when you post seeing if you get agreement.

Wexler has 4 DDO's and 11 DDR's for the 1995 and I didn't check anywhere else for you.

The "true" one shown is the one having the most eye appeal, but, there are others not as dramatic.

You may have to rotate the coin relative to your light source or move light source to capture fine details you'll need to be able. I can't see a DDO on yours but, at least one exists that is quite subtle.

Flip side, I can't see enough in your pictures to see anything wrong with the plating or zinc.

Here is a picture I took with a smartphone last night, one no better than yours, in a fully and well illuminated room, using the flash and a 7 buck copy of a 10X hastings triplet. See the captured ashes falling from my cigar? If this cent had a DD or plating issues etc, this would leave nothing to guess, ya reckon?

 

Absolutely. I never use flash on. Camera because I thought it was taking away what was needing to be visible.
Thanks for all the info. I guess I have been kind of useless in the research department. Just throwing coins up expecting you all to just know these things in your head. I just need to slow down. Working so much so I get in a hurry searching rolls or looking through too many separated stacks.
I started collecting like the banks were going to sell out. I think I was grabbing at least 2 boxes of pennies a wk for a few months. Overwhelmed myself and now I have coins Alll over the house.
Another mistake I feel I made was trying to dive in with paper currency and all coins. Just taking a 10 yr timeline from pennies is enough information to learn to keep me busy for months. The rpm, ddo, md, etc.. I had to get a cheat sheet to learn what every abbreviation was. At first I posted a coin and someone said md. I got all excited thinking that meant something good. Boy did I feel dumb on that one.
Well today is finish day on this 4 month long job. I'm taking several weeks off and putting a lot more effort into this. I found a 1972 ddo fs 104 or fs 102. I got 2 answers on it and you get that high when you find something after all that digging. That really got me rushing as well. Sorry for the book I just wrote. Anyways , thanks again for all the help folks.

 

Only to you as a collector @NewCollectorRick

You either want to keep it or spend it and it's your choice.

Me?

I'd toss it in the change bag and not give it a second thought.

 

It's cool, don't be dependent on your camera for your inspections since at this point, you are likely aware that seeing it in hand and being able to photograph it so other people who have no problem with speculating and imagining what your coin is or is not without sufficient image quality to prove or disprove.

Have you realized that to be something that may happen online?
I ask you this while you still haven't affirmed your 69S is that RPM I suggested may be possible. Your pictures certainly haven't proven it and I don't know the value of it regardless of the coin's condition. It may have a premium worth putting some effort into being able to present.

Some things are obvious and don't require great pix, but, the subtle things are going to require you stepping up your picture game and that, I promise you, requires lots of learning and time.

by the way, if you snag a decent loupe for inspecting and maybe even improving your pix, play also with the zoom settings and pay attention to being squared off and centered.

you could even fasten your loupe to your camera since I know you are handy and clever that way......

playing with lighting is free and don't let any rigid and fixed advice box you into some certain way of thinking.... see flash used with a loupe above for a prime example.

color temp or wrong hue isn't a big deal with digital photography where the first step should be to faithfully capture what is there, you don't do that with huge pixels and poor technique.

You can fix color AFTER with common editing software, native to android, windows and most any other device that has image viewers. Fixing too much or too little light, not so much when it comes to macro photography which you've now learned isn't as easy as point and shoot for birthday parties etc.

heck, even play with a set of reading glasses and don't be scared to try them or your loupe with your USB scope.

It's not like you have to go pay for film or having it processed.

 

crosseyes.

 

Thanks for all the info. I was stuck in one persons advice and just trying to take certain pic with 10x loupe, in the same way every time expecting different results. I broke my screen on phone 10 min aftwr my last post on or around the 4th of July and finally got new phone. Upgraded to the LG g6 which I was told had an awesome camera so now I just need to get settings right.
My color blindness might be playing big role in my picture quality also. When you say less pixels? I know you can change but does that have anything to do with me being in 4.3 16.9 or whatever the othwrs are? I really have no clue when it comes to cameras and photography. I set phone to auto and snap pictures usually. I will screen shot some of the setting options I have and post, if you see anything that may or may not help let me know please. I will find a tutorial or some kind of video for tips while I learn new phone. Thanks again for the support.

 

so are spme of the options. Looks like I can do overlays possibly paddyman.

 

4:3 is closer to square than 16:9. Square is closer to a round coin than an elongated rectangle.

13MP better than less MP.

RAW excellent. Caveat, I have no idea how much storage space you have on-board.

Note it will save the 13MP shot and also something will be presented as a jpg saved likely less than 8MP, so each shot will take up considerably more space.

I have a huge micro-SD stuffed in mine (larger than the MSATA and SDD combined on my workhorse PC) so it's seldom a concern, even for videos.

This format, RAW, saves the 13MP image in a format so that you can easily do overlays or image stacking. You can also see pixels your camera captured in more accurate form than those rendered by the process of converting and compressing to a smaller jpg file size.

You will appreciate the difference between RAW and jpg much more if you view them on a nice large monitor, mostly.

You'll find that just this aspect of the imaging is going to involve learning curve and time. Experiment with it and draw your own conclusions. There are lots of youtube videos on the subject by different people using different approaches in sharing information.

Also, a 10X loupe is fine for merely inspecting or grading coins. It will prove insufficient for many variety attributions.

You're going to need more magnification and you can even stack 2 10X loupes for 20X. Stacking doesn't work as well as having a proper 15X or 20X or 30X, but, it's just information to consider.

I use a continuously variable zoom from 7X to 30X in 3D stereo. I seldom need 30X, but, when higher levels are required (and sometimes they are) 30X in stereo provides more visual information (to my eyes and not my camera which isn't 3D) than 30X from a loupe.

Higher magnifications generally require more light and more careful handling of it, especially to photograph what you are seeing successfully.

You want the glass to magnify and show your eye what is there. This is somewhat essential as using "digital zoom" results in loss of detail and renders a larger image, yet one that is fighting you in that the detail goes away.

It appears you have a pretty good device. Which one is it? G6 I see, that is a nice device and very capable.


Do you see the black things in the loupe pic I posted? Those were ashes off my cigar captured falling by the flash.

 

yeah pretty sweet. Ill,get it adjusted soon and be posting similar pics.