I'm trying to fix the dark left side. In the mean time here is a 76 Type 1 Toner. I want to get a better full shot but this one gets the toning good.
Another test on the Marginal one. It's not dark on the left but the color seems off. The only good thing about this one was the luster.
Much improved, Bman33. The background is supposed to be white, correct? The photo above shows an open book with white pages, but there is also a green tint there as well. I played with it a bit in PS to see if I could correct the background color, but I was only able to diminish it a little bit. Is the coin more of a golden hue or is it nickel colored? This is what I came up with, assuming the coin is the standard, untoned nickel color. The background is stubborn, but maybe someone else knows a more effective way to color correct.
You nailed it dude! That's exactly what it looks like. I have 2 gold toners I want to put up to but the color is off when I shoot. I have two lamps that are hooded with 75W frosty incandescent light bulbs. Don't know why I am having problems.
Great! Sometimes I have color artifact in the background too. The color is usually a light lavender, but it's easily corrected with the auto tone function.
I use a program called GIMP 2.8 for some photo processing. This is freeware and can be easily found with a simple yahoo search. This program is close to PS in what it can do and has an excellent Auto White Balance feature and has an easy way to scale your photo's up or down if needed. On another note, I have found that the background color really helps in capturing a more accurate color. On silver colored coins I use a black background and on copper coins I use a grey background. This seems to work well with my lighting. You might want to give it a shot.
@MontCollector @Ike Skywalker @mikenoodle @19Lyds @cladking @spirityoda I'm struggling with getting nice Ike's I have been continually Hunting for high grade coins in dealers bins and not too much luck with the exceptions of an uncirculated silver 72S and an uncirculated she silver 73S. All the rest are probably low MS grades. I have about 11 to go for the 35 coin set but I was hoping for MS65's and higher. Any advice?
73 and 74 Brown are two big ones. I found a dealer who has a hoard of them but I have to remind him to bring them to his shop on Saturday.
I have several brown 74s, but they all have target toning and some degree of hazing. Finding a brown 74 without either may take some time. The 73-S shouldn't be too difficult to find nice, but there aren't as many (key). Just continue to take your time and wait for the right example. Do you ever shop on eBay?
I would suggest looking on ewwbay. ignore the bulk sales and go for the single coin purchases. Some nice ones can be found. Just make sure it says that you are getting the coin pictured. If it says there are more than one available move on. Having said that I have gotten a couple nice ones by asking if I can have the coin pictured when multiple are available. I only ask this if I am the 1st one to purchase when multiple are offered. You can always buy graded ones and crack them out as well
Volume. Look at a lot of rolls and mint sets. Frankly now days it's probably cheaper to just buy out of the money slabs. MS-65's can be dirt cheap. Just be sure to find a nice MS-65 since some are dogs.
Very good advice from Mont and cladking. I will also add that some graded 64s are downright gems with excellent strikes and eye appeal, and they can be had really cheap. I've been able to score Ikes like this for under $10 on occasion. I just need to also mention eBay seller, davenders. If he lists an Ike and describes it as GEM then it will be. If he lists one as CHOICE BU, again, it will be. He can be trusted. I've purchased many Ikes from him over the years. You'll have to pay a little more, but you'll know what you're getting.
It is mostly in the hunt now, bman. There are millions of the coins out there. Now you have to look at at least half of them. LOL
I have a one 73 and one 74 each Brown Ikes, the 73 is quite nicely classic mirror frosted proof, but the 74 has what I think you'd call "Hazing." Cloudy towards the rim and light purplish toning around Ike's head itself. Semi-attractive, semi-ugly. Eye of the beholder I suppose. Are these coins in general best taken out of the original mint packaging, which apparently is not all that air tight I guess? I always found the fake wood grain cardboard boxes kinda cheap looking, even downright ugly. Are these yet more valued for the collector? Or is a preference thing. Their value doesn't warrant them slabbed / Third Party Graded, does it? SilverWilliesCoins.com Bill
I cracked a 1971 Brown out and dipped it in eZest for one second. Looks great and all the haze is gone. I showed it to a well known dealer without telling him what I did and he said it was a great coin.
bought sweet ike set in 2015 11pgcs ms70 balance ms69 with 2 ike centennial silver dollars from old school collector who prided having the best of the best
Having problems identifying 1971D FEVs. I went through a 100 1971Ds and was confused as to what I was looking for. Any sure tell things to look for?
Sure. 1. Look for a rock that appears to be falling off the upper right crater. (Click to Enlarge) Secondly, look at the Gulf Of Mexico. It should be nearly round on the FEV compared to the a regular 71-D. (Click to Enlarge) Additionally, as noted above, the Eastern Seaboard has a triangular shape sticking out of it as well as between 4 and 7 Islands off the coast of Florida (depending upon die life and strike quality). The above items are easily seen with the naked eye or the worst of eBay photo's that have any definition at all. There are others but I view them as secondary and much more difficult to actually see and interpret. For example, the feather veins on the Tail Feathers the crater flow lines on the Lower Right Crater and last but not least, the eagles eyebrow which gave it the name Friendly Eagle.