Starting an Ike Collection

No.

 

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Which Chapter?

 

Just to be clear, I made some changes and additions in red.

Also, just so you're in sync with other collectors, substitute the word "Type" for "Variety". (i.e. Type 1, Type 2, Type 3)

The 1971-D and 1972-D come with pegleg "R's"
The 1974-D and 1977-D coins do as well but they're a little weirder and different looking since the base R is of a different design.
The 1976 and 1976-D Type 1 coins are all pegleg R's by design.
There is a 1972 Type 1 coin that is a PegLeg, but it is very scarce.

Good Luck at the ANA Show but, if I were going, I'd expect more 40% Silver Proof and 40% Silver Unc's than anything else. I'd also expect tubed "roll's" of circulation quality IKE's but few individual singles. Some dealers "may" have boxes of IKE's but, truth be told, the CnClad IKE is simply not a popular coin to haul around to coin shows as the profit margin is quite slim.
Of course, this has been my experience.

 

Thanks Lyds, awesome help.

 

Come to think of it I don't know if it survived in the newer editions or not but in the original it's ch #22.

 

Toned Ikes are popular. I know several collectors that have some impressive toned Ike collections. A couple of them are members here. I have a couple of toned Ikes myself. Having said that I wouldn't ever pay near the premium for one that toned Morgans demand. I think silver tones much better than CuNi.

I gotta ask, are you collecting in hopes to make a profit? If so plan on holding onto them for quite some time.

Here is a Tru-View picture of my toned Ike avatar. The avatar photo itself I took myself with my photo set-up.

PCGS Photo

 

I'm not hoping to make a profit. I just felt it would be a fun series to collect with all the varieties. I would hope to pass it on to Family later on.

 

Just wanted to make sure this Philly business strike was a variety 2. Any thoughts?

 

Yes, it is variety 2.

 

yes, sir, variety 2

 

Titled?

 

The primary difference between the Type 1 and Type 2 BiCentennial reverses is that the Type 1 BiCentennial Lettering has no serifs on the lettering while the Type 2 does.




Of course E Pluribus Unum has a different alignment but, IMO, it's the lettering style which gives it away.

As pointed out earlier, the Obverse Lettering is different between the two as well. Most notable on the "R" in LIBERTY.

 

For me, the thick vs. thin lettering is the most obvious difference.

 

@19Lyds @cladking @Ike Skywalker @MontCollector

I'm going to two LCS's today to get some Ikes. I don't want to get carried away. I am thinking of getting all the 71's including another Brown and Blue. Any suggestions?

 

If they have several Ikes to choose from just select the best ones based mainly on eye appeal. You're not worried about grading these, so eye appeal is more important in this case, at least IMO. For proof Ikes, you'll obviously want to select any non-hazed samples, if there are any. I wouldn't buy any blue Ikes where the cellophane is cloudy and dingy. Looking forward to seeing what you find.

 

it's "Collectible Ike Varieties".

 

Try to look at lots of raw coins so you know what "typical" is.

Keep your eyes open for cheap slabs. Some of the coins in these are just outstanding but there's so little demand they go for peanuts.

 

Truth.

 

I found Chapter 22, "The Eisenhower Dollar and the Coin Market" in the "Collecting Ike Varieties book by the IKE Group.

I thought we were discussing the Authoritative Reference on Eisenhower Dollars.

I don't know that there is a subsequent edition for the IKE Group book and now I have to go read the chapter.

 

The article was a little more heavily edited than I'd have liked but for the main part the changes made it more readable to more people. Unfortunately though three changes led to misleading or incorrect statements. I can't recall now whether all my concerns were addressed or not before publication but at least some changes were made to the edited copy. Overall it's more my work than the editor's and it is essentially correct from some perspective.