My first error coin USB microscope

Off topic...So what is that in the top picture? Necked down 30 caliber? 5.56?

 

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I thought all the old rifles were 50 caliber are better. I'll investigate it one of these days to find out. USMC60

 

Thank you

 

Before I continue I feel that I haven't given this camera a fair review.
For someone with more skill on a computer than I have this camera would probably work well. In the last I checked the cost was under $40.
Here are some photos from this camera.

Now I'd like to continue with my next camera. I notice the camera that
Rick Stachowski Was using for the photos in his thread.The photographs were not that bad so I decided to purchase one of these cameras.
Plugable USB 2.0 Digital Microscope with Flexible Arm Observation Stand for Wind

Product Features

Useful and fun for students, collectors, testers, and anyone interested in exploring the microscopic world.
2.0 Megapixels, up to 250x magnification (Note: Final magnification corresponds to monitor size)
Uses a webcam chipset and sensor to support nearly any operating system using standard webcam software.
LED halo light with brightness adjustment control. Flexible arm stand with observation pad includes graduated marks for easy measurement.
Optional software for Windows and OS X adds

 

Continuation. Now if you want to see some of the photos that this camera can take. You can visit
Rick Stachowski
Threads and see some of the photographs this camera takes.
I have to be honest and say that I did not spend that much time with this camera.
I definitely don't like the stand. Tends to move when you have to adjust the focus or the lighting.
As in all USB cameras they have their little tricks to make them perform.
Hopefully we can get Rick to respond and show us his set up and give us some tips.
And maybe even a couple of photographs. The choice in cameras is always yours.
USMC60

 

I have to add this is one thing I really liked about this camera.
Is being capable of taking a full shot of a coin even to quarters.You have to be careful on what magnification that you purchase. Some of my other USB cameras like my first one, you could take a photo of a full coin but you had did do some manipulation to get a full photo,

 

Well I'd like to move on now. As I was slowly getting back into my error coin collection.
I decided I was going to purchase another microscope, this time I decided I was going to get one with the camera attachment.
I already have a stereo microscope with a 20 x 40 magnification. I thought I'd upgrade to a 20 x 60. With photo capability. I found a microscope at amscope Basically did not know what I was getting myself into. Here are some of the photos that the camera takes. Let it be known you have to be careful with the camera that you purchase with your microscope. Ended up calling tech support, this is the way it was explained to me. You have an MD 35 camera and you have a 20 x 60 microscope. So in order to judge the magnifications. Say like in the first photo under the 20 power. It would actually be 35x20 would be the magnification number for that first photo,
For real good close-ups of an error this is a microscope camera you want. The first photo is the lowest magnification this microscope camera can take.
I wish I would've done a lot more research before I made the purchase of this microscope camera. Don't get me wrong now the microscope works fine.

I would suggest if you continue in error coin collecting you invest in a good microscope. Do not rely on the USB cameras for coin examination they have a tendency to give you false imaging. But definitely do your homework before you make a purchase like this. I believe at my purchase time this camera ran about 140 bucks.
There are so many options out there now, before you make an investment do your homework. USMC60

 

Great Thread - Lots of good stuff! NOW......I have a "lighting" question re: Microscope Photography. I just bought a Dino-Lite Pro AM4113T 1.3MP Handheld Digital Microscope. My question is: When taking a picture of a slabbed coin I just could not how to jet rid of the circle of little lights that are the light-source for the unit. I read .... an 'lo and behold there is a diffuser available for my unit. I bought one from SunriseDino for $29.00 w/shipping. I installed it - easy - and proceeded to try again at "picture-taking". However..... Now I have a circle of light that appears on the picture.....DRAT! Any ideas? Any suggestions? .....Anyone?

 

Can't speak on that particular model. I have found out these USB cameras can be very fickled. I have found sometimes you just have to shut the camera lights off. And go with an alternate light or a combination of both.
Myself personally I do not plan on spending any more money on lighting than necessary. I have found with a few of the household lighting items and with some pieces of white paper and a lot of trial and error. I can sometimes achieve the lighting that I desire. As a photographer once told me lighting is everything but keep it basic.

We have members on coin talk I'm sure would be more than happy to help you with their lighting suggestions. And probably some with the same kind of camera you have.
I have a new camera that I've been working with for the past month have not figured out what kind of light this camera likes. It's work in progress with as little money as possible. USMC60

 

Thank you, USMC60 - Appreciate the input.

 

This is the USB Microscope I have. It has a ring of LED lights at the end of it so lighting is not a problem. I only use it for close ups, I use my Digital SLR for whole coin or slab shots. I'm including a close up I took with it.

 

Since it appears that many of the diffusers for these scopes are just translucent plastic, they tend to just decrease the light amount rather than diffuse it. One might cut a circle of thin tissue paper to make the proper "donut shape" and then put it between the leds and the diffuser. This would produce more variations of the light direction from each led and not have enough concentration of the beam to form a circle of light that reflects. if it does, add another donut. Thought problem answer, as I mention, never had the equipment.

 

I bought one of these years ago for another purpose and now use it to try and determine cast fake ancients however I believe I would be better off by reducing my risk by buying from good dealers with an honest reputation. I had not thought of using this as a camera though and hear the comments but may give it a try.
This little camera saved me and other folk a lot of money some years ago when i was able to determine that stamping on a 100 year collectible from a "cache" had been made by Laser!

 

When it comes to these kinds a USB microscopes. I generally go by what I visually notice. One thing I have noticed about some of these USB microscopes since a lot of them are in high definition, I find the camera has a tendency to adjust itself to give you the best high definition picture.
Now the later models tend to be a lot slower in doing this. So if you get the lighting right the camera will do the rest automatically. The lighting is the key with these cameras,

I am constantly trying new lighting techniques and another observation. What works for one camera will not work for another camera.
A good example of this is Rick's camera, I purchase one. Attempted to use the lighting techniques from my old faithful USB camera, but unfortunately they would not work on Rick's camera.
Rick has spent the time and effort into finding out what his camera likes and works well with. Now I read where other members have bought the same camera and cannot get it to perform.
But I'm sure if I spent time with the camera in different lighting techniques I could also get the camera to perform. But instead I moved up to a five megapixel camera which is the next camera to be brought up on this thread.

desertgem I find your information to be extremely helpful. But I have one question for you on the camera in the photo how do I do the paper trick with this camera The camera and lights are all compiled within a half inch casing. This camera is good for lighting glare, and does not work well with artificial lighting You even get more glare. USMC60

 

There are times when one wants strong central line lighting ( peering through dark canals or tubing), but bright reflective flat surfaces are not very suitable. I hope it came with some software which might allow contrast control or amount of light. If its only use was with coin type material, I would try masking some of the light. I would have to think it through more clearly, but I would probably use fine emery board to frost the tip of the led. Not sure the size of your LEDS, but I would also peruse Walmart's plastic fingernail section and find a thin translucent acrylic one to use to brainstorm a fit. Interesting fun thing! Good luck

 

Like I mentioned in this thread this one has its usage. For some reason the software was not compatible with Windows. And since my computer knowledge is very limited. It was a lot easier for me just to change to a camera that was more user-friendly for me.

But I appreciate your help and suggestions Maybe other members will be able to use your help. usmc60

 

Thanks to one and all for all the input. I think I'll pass on using the Leds on the unit itself and go to auxiliary lighting. I'll also play with the contrast and other fine tuning. Again many thanks

 

Driving along today from the Mexican border, I remembered that once I used whiteout on an LED to reduce its output. Didn't make too much difference to the light output( maybe 10-20 %). Afterwards a papertowel moistened with acetone took it off with no apparent etching. Repeated it today, and it does decrease the glare, acetone still works YMMV

 

If you don't mind me asking. What kind of camera hardware are you using.
That's one thing I've noticed about some of these USB camera software there are lacking in their editing capabilities.

I myself go through Windows 10 camera software. Even an idiot like myself can use it.
Just remember lighting is the key. USMC60

 

It's the software that came with the microscope. DinoCapture software.