Buffalo Purchase Opinions onthe grade ?

Just bought a better date Buffalo Nickel and was wondering about the grade. Would like to hear some opinions ...Thanks in advance

 

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I'd say VF20.

 

I can see VF20. I'd want to see more horn but this one has enough more going for it.

 

Here's what one coin-grading site illustrates for VF25 - sorry, we're a long way from this. OP's coin might go VG-F.



See: http://coinauctionshelp.com/How_To_Grade_Buffalo_Nickels.html#.WItFs0-Xzgw

 

ditto.


IMO: VG.

to the other opinions:

since when do we totally ignore the horn on the reverse for grading?

 

I wouldn't be surprised to see that coin in a dealer's case with "Fine" written on the 2x2.

 

I had kind of thought Fine myself

 

I think it would go fine.

 

The surfaces from front to back look like 2 different coins. The obverse has tons of tiny marks... how does this happen?

 

Can you photo it out of the 2x2? The obverse looks damaged to me so F details imo

 

i would give a fine but no more

 

I would be in the VG- F camp also.

 

I attributed that to different lighting. Of course, that was just my guess to put my own mind at ease.

 

This is what PCGS calls VF20:

 

This is the typical perfect coin you'll encounter in an advanced grading class. Note the opinions of our expert dealers and collectors here range from VG to VF. How can that be? What is the correct grade? Actually, each of you is 100% correct because grading is subjective. That is not a weasel-out. It is 100% true and each of you that have given a reason for your grade is correct.

Here are some things to consider when grading this coin (remember, NO ONE HERE IS WRONG):

1. The coin was struck in Denver. When the original coin dropped off the press it was probably (I'm 90% sure) missing the tip of the horn. Now forget the reverse for a second. One member posted the obverse of a VF 25 from a grading site. Compare the details of that obverse with the OP's coin obverse.

2. Everything in books and these online photo grade sites are to be used as GUIDES. They are not set in stone and very often have little to do with most of the coins we find in the "real world." Does that make the commercial marketplace wrong? I'll put my money on the market makers and TPGS rather than photo guides.

3. One member wonders when the horn does not matter (EDIT ). To paraphrase several CURRENT grading guides for VF Buffalo nickels: "Point of horn is not always visible." "Typically, in the marketplace the horn is not full."

4. Many dealers insist on a full complete horn before they pay VF money. Nevertheless, look at what they SELL as VF.

5. One of my favorite things to do as a YN in the 1960's (not much luck anymore today as dealers are more knowledgeable) was to purchase fully lustrous, flatly struck, Branch Mint Buffalo nickels (Unc's and Choice AU's) with only a hint of the horn's base visible that were graded G to VG and priced for a few dollars.

6. EDIT Note: The luster in the field of the PCGS coin is missing on the OP's.

By any grading guide the OP's coin is a FINE. When I opened this thread and saw the first two opinions from @Paul M. and @eddiespin was VF-20, I thought way to go, you both nailed a very tricky coin. I almost closed the thread and moved on.
Wish I had.

I am at the bottom of the VF-20 grade and IMO the three of us are just as correct as the opinions of Fine and VG.

 

I've collected Buffalo Nickels for some years, and personally find them to be the toughest series to grade accurately. I would grade the OP's example as 'fine'.

 

F12-15 $35

 

At one ANA advanced grading class, Bill Fivas brought his grading set of Buffalo nickels. There must have been 100+ Buffalo coins in his enclosed sets. The Buffalo coin is not as simple as some other coin series.

I think the inverse relief Indian gold coins we studied were the most difficult US coins. Trying to grade them was like punishment.

 

I'm in at VF20.