Question for Ike Collectors

Discussion in 'US Coins Forum' started by CamaroDMD, Dec 24, 2016.

  1. CamaroDMD

    CamaroDMD [Insert Clever Title]

    I have always wanted to assemble a relatively basic Ike Collection in a Dansco. Recently, I went through and made a list of coins that I think would make a "complete" set and it conformed well to the Dansco 8176 book...the only change being is I want to get an example of all 3 types of the 1972. I figure I will get a slabbed Type 2 and put the Type 3 in one of the unlabeled slots at the end.

    So, my question is...are mint sets (except for 71 and 72) the best way to get relatively clean circulation strike Ikes? I know these coins are prone to dings due to the really low relief and large size. I'm not looking for a ultra gem set...but I would like to track down nicer looking coins for this project. Any suggestions?
     
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  3. Morgandude11

    Morgandude11 As long as it's Silver, I'm listening

    I did my complete set with mint sets, and a Brown and Blue boxed Ikes. I did the full set, including proofs, in gem grade. It was neither hard, nor expensive.
     
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  4. paddyman98

    paddyman98 I'm a professional expert in specializing! Supporter

    I really don't know the year on mine. But it's a TYPE 1 :rolleyes:
    3345551-006.JPG
     
  5. CamaroDMD

    CamaroDMD [Insert Clever Title]

    Ok. That's sorta what I was thinking. I figured it would be an inexpensive fun set with a lot of different visual appeal due to the mixture of silver and clad BU and proofs.
     
  6. CamaroDMD

    CamaroDMD [Insert Clever Title]

    I think that's a type 0.
     
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  7. Kirkuleez

    Kirkuleez 80 proof

    The Dansco set (with proof only issues) contains 32 pieces and four empty holes on the last page. I did my set a while back by getting pretty much all slabbed examples and cracking them out. They were all pretty cheap in relatively high grades because there are plenty of submissions looking to get top pop grades, but fall just short. The prices for the grade just below top pop are very reasonable and easy to find. I spent a good amount of time looking for a matched set of pieces with light blue or lavender toning and completed the set for about $200-250. It is now a really nice collection of higher grade examples with similar looks. Be careful if buying a completed set, the large proofs are almost always filled with album slide marks.
     
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  8. CamaroDMD

    CamaroDMD [Insert Clever Title]

    I'm not a big crack out guy...but maybe that's the best way to do one of these sets.
     
  9. DUNK 2

    DUNK 2 Well-Known Member

    Sounds like a question for @19Lyds.
     
  10. Morgandude11

    Morgandude11 As long as it's Silver, I'm listening

    My set cost about $250, and I didn't do any crack-outs. I got really nice looking coins from the boxed and mint sets, and filled in the blanks with nice raw coins. The set was all over 65-- as long as you avoid the 66-68s on the tougher dates, they are cheap enough. Proofs as 69s are really easy.
     
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  11. Paul M.

    Paul M. Well-Known Member

    IIRC, there are a couple dates where even a 65 will cost quite a bit. Things have really changed since 25-30 years ago when nobody was paying attention to Ikes. :)
     
  12. Cascade

    Cascade CAC Grader, Founding Member

    A type 1... LOL
     
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  13. Cascade

    Cascade CAC Grader, Founding Member

    I like buying complete with proof danscos. I have 2 or 3 so far. Buy them complete when you can find them for a good price with nice condition coins and go variety hunting. Its much more fun than filling holes IMO
     
    Paul M. likes this.
  14. CamaroDMD

    CamaroDMD [Insert Clever Title]

    I prefer the hunt and assembling the sets myself. That's where the fun is for me.
     
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  15. Endeavor

    Endeavor Well-Known Member

    You also have 40% silver business and proof strikes from 1971 to 1976.
     
  16. CamaroDMD

    CamaroDMD [Insert Clever Title]

    That is one of the reasons I like this set...lots of variety.
     
  17. jtlee321

    jtlee321 Well-Known Member

    It should be a fun set to put together. If you are lucky, you may have a few dealers near you that don't care about Ike's and they keep them in a box for just a hair over face value. I've picked up some really nice GEM's for $1.15 - $1.25 each. But I enjoy the hunt as well.

    Of course, I won't find any of the 40% or proofs in that box, but the others are all there. The 1972 Type 2 has still eluded me as well.
     
  18. ToughCOINS

    ToughCOINS Dealer Member Moderator

    I collected the clad business strikes, avoiding the proofs and silvers. In my experience, Denver issues come nice almost universally, and regardless of the source. Philly coins, on the other hand, generally exhibit far more minor planchet flaws, whether due to lower striking force, or due to inferior planchets, if not from the same batches as those delivered to Denver.

    I always found the best struck coins in mint sets, but had to hunt through everything . . . mint sets, coin trays, rolls and bags to find Philly coins that were mark-free. The obvious exception being that there were no rolls or bags from 1973, and no mint sets from '71 or '72.
     
  19. Cascade

    Cascade CAC Grader, Founding Member

    Technically they are types. If you like varieties my method is the bomb diggidy. A friend once bought a complete dansco and made $15k off of it because a few of the business strikes graded very high as well as a few 70 proofs
     
    Paul M. likes this.
  20. CamaroDMD

    CamaroDMD [Insert Clever Title]

    I said variety...not varieties. I meant variety in the sense of the dictionary definition not the coin collecting one
     
    Cascade likes this.
  21. CamaroDMD

    CamaroDMD [Insert Clever Title]

    I suddenly realize this may have come across a little "snarky." That was not my intention.
     
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