I'm trying to work on my photography skills and toned coins are a real challenge for me. I did my best with this one and I think it turned out OK. The obverse has a lovely purple toning to it...the photos don't quite do it justice but it gives you a decent feel for the colors. The reverse is pretty much white but it does have just a touch of the purple toning as well (most visible on the wing near 4 o'clock). This is a 1961 with a Type B Reverse.
I do not know what your setup is, but I use a loose soft base under my coins. It makes it easy to make minor adjustments to bring out color and similar. I simply push, list prop up, etc. the base to make minor tweaks to better show color or whatever. This works particularly well with slabs.
I will try that. I have been using a white piece of paper as a back drop but on a hard surface. I will try something that allows a little movement and see if that helps. Thanks.
I like those Type B Washington Quarters. I was bidding on Heritage on an unattributed 1960 in PCGS MS-66 but someone else spotted it as well. It went for just more than I was willing to pay for it.
OK, so I did this and took a few more shots. I think this worked better...this is more how the toning looks. It's a lovely subtle purple.
Easy to set up. Easy to use - even if all you do is find out where to move your lighting. I use a sheet of styrofoam insulation covered with layers of drawer non-slip liner. It works great for my slabs. I just push on the corners until I find where is best. BTW typically I find the best color means you have to angle the coin at least to some degree.
I appreciate the advice. It's challenging to do this so it's nice to learn from others and avoid all the time it takes to experiment everything yourself. So, thank you. Do you think this latest photo looks better. I feel the lighting isn't so blown out so you get a better feel for the coin itself. I will keep practicing though. I'm limited for equipment. I only have one light (I need to get another) and I don't have a camera stand...so everything is done free hand (which means lots of carefully steady holding and a bunch of shots). I would love to get a lens for this type of work too...but the lens I want is $800 (not just for coins of course)...so that will have to wait.
Yes, it is better. You still need some fill lighting. I have no idea how you managed to hold your camera still enough freehand. If you don't want to buy a full stand yet, an "L" (two pieces of wood screwed together) would be a great help. Just make it a bit longer than your desired length and then you can adjust your base.
What do you mean by "fill lighting." I know I need to get a second light and arrange them better which I think will help. Any particular light that you recommend? As for the freehand stuff...I take a bunch of shots of the same thing and I try and manually focus each one and take my time. I think the "dentist career" helps...very steady hands. Here is one more I photographed recently. The reason I choose this coin is because I think I got it from you years ago. I took my own photos of it yesterday...but I also have photos that you took a long time ago for comparison (at least I think it was you...haha). Here are mine: And here are your's (I think):
I do not think that is/was my coin. Regardless, woodies are very persnickety to photograph. Both are very good pictures. Which looks closer to the actual coin?
I think the color of mine is more accurate...has that burnt orange feel. But, I didn't capture the wood grain as well as I'd have liked.
