Low grade or details?

All else being equal, what would you get? A low grade coin or a higher grade one that is detailed?

 

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Left. Why? The right also would get details graded for harsh cleaning.

 

AH. But in general. Assuming each was an otherwise problem-free coin.

In other words, a general question: at what point does a detailed higher-grade coin become worth less than a lower grade coin?

 

Hey

Hey - have to show Obverse pics also - with what you have shown I say Bullcrap condition pic on the right one and maybe MAYBE GOOD on the other one!

 

they're just run of the mill 1905s. I was trying to decide which one to put in the album, the slick one or the gouged one... At the end of the day I guess they're both worthless anyways

 

From the reverse pictures I would take the gouged on the left if I had to pick one.

 

I'd be glad to take one of them off your hands.

(This is a joke and not a real buy/sell/trade offer, mods!)

 

Personally, I'd rather have a lower clean grade over a higher details grade, especially if the coin is scarce.

 

Why am I being picture stingy?
Here you go.
I'm torn between one that has good details and a slick...

 

If you can't decide, perhaps it would be best to buy neither, and instead look for a problem free coin that doesn't make you want to buy a problem coin.

 

good point. actually, why dont I just get both! They're at BV...so call it a bullion investment

 

Because they're likely *not* at bullion value. The coin on the right is likely ~18% short on weight.

 

that much?! Dang. I'll go broke at this rate ...

 

It depends on how low of a problem free grade we're talking about. I draw the line at a G4. I would always prefer a problem free good or better over a higher grade details coin. AG and below is a different story though. When major design elements are worn off I consider that a problem coin, straight grade or not. As for the OP examples, I don't care much for either. I would save my money for something better.

 

Get a dime tube meant to store 50 and some slick barber dimes. You could probably fit about 70 slicks into the dime tube.

 

Of those two? Neither. Hate the slick (I can't read the date and you probably can't either once you put it into the album). Not a big fan of the road rash special either.

Conceptually?

• First choice would be to save money a bit at a time for a decent, straight-grade one.
• Second, I'd prefer a lower grade straight-graded coin (but some minimum like G4).
• Third would be the damaged coin, probably only if it's something I realize I'll never be able to get any other way.

The thing to ask yourself is "If I settle, will it eat away at me?" Will you be happy with the hole filled or just see it as a blinking red failure, every time you look at the album. Don't do it just to fill the hole if it will make you unhappy.


For example, I have an (impaired) PF58 in my XF/AU 3CS Set. Given the mintage, that's the best I'm likely going to do...

Business Strike mintage 4k, most melted in the 1870s.
PCGS has 2 XF40, 1 XF45, 61 all grades. NGC 2 XF40, 44 all grades.
Estimated survival 300 all grades.

Proofs mintage 625.
PCGS has 7 impaired proofs, 316 total. NGC 220, non impaired.
Estimated survival 575, all grades.


If I ever have the opportunity, I'll exchange the PF58 for an XF40/45, but if I never am able to, it's still a very nice piece. And the set has other things that don't, strictly, belong, but they are there because I like them...

Now there are some other coins in that set where I found a nice XF and moved the AU coin I had initially into other collections.

Collecting is very, very personal and do what makes YOU happy!

 

Thanks for the input!

 

Great post.

BTW, you have an 1867 3CS, right?

 

Yes... I figured somebody would figure out the date w/o saying it , because the business strike and proof mintages - while all small from 1863 on - are all different. The only repeated # is the 600 proofs for 1868, 1869 and 1872.

 

That's the best option most of the time IMHO.