How do you dry a coin you have dipped?

Thanks to you and @BadThad for the suggestions of Ultrasonics and Tetrahydrofuran for initiating a solution to resolve my extruded plastic removal problem from coin crevices.

After unsuccessfully implementing utilization of Acetone which has a vapor pressure up to 30+ times greater Benzene, Ethanol, Toluene, and Tetrahydrofuran, with a LEL of 2.5%, I recognized that @BadThad solvent suggestion, and a modified Ultrasonic apparatus I had developed in the past, would resolve the safe stripping of plastic extruded residue/film from my coin.

The aforementioned device was designed to remove the residue left from the insidious/destructive carburated fuel "Ethanol". The hard residue plugs the minute labyrinthian orifices in our snowmobile/cycle racing engine carburators, and couldn't be removed chemically. Neither chemicals or commercial ultrasonic devices alone would remove the residue/film, but the apparatus worked beautifully, saving many hours of intricate labor.

Thanks Guys!!

 

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What solvents did you try on the "hard residue"? Is the fuel 100% ethanol?

 

To be honest, we used a commercial "solvent" that was recommended for cleaning carburators, which is normal for individuals unfamiliar with the residue remaining when 10% "Ethanol" evaporates.

We inform all individuals that they should be using 91 Octane "Ethanol-Free" fuel in "small engines", but the complaints are cost and general unavailability. We did, and do, an appreciable carburator repair business on chain saws, lawn mowers, weed whips, etc..

Do you have any specific recommendations for removal of this corn-base residual?

 

Did you try DI or distilled water? Sounds like it's probably a polar compound of some sort if you tried solvents and they failed. If you try water in a sonicator, be sure to flush with an intermediate solvent like isopropanol (100%) to remove all traces of water, then a non-polar solvent afterwards to remove the IPA and ensure miscibility with fuel.

 

Whoa...I think I have some of that insidious stuff in my system...

 

Don't dip it too long is one piece of advice I can offer up. See the 'Lynchburg Comm' thread here if you need verification on over dipping. Hey, it's cleaner though. Right? (I got all the 'dirt' off though). LOL (there. I feel better now that I can laugh about it. Yeah right).

 

Ethanol leaves a residue? I'm in big trouble...

 

Its not the 10% ethanol that leaves the residue, its from the other 90% components.

 

You would probably agree if you objectively investigated all parameters of this non-indigenous/perennial vegetative species product. For starters, I believe you'd find:
Ethanol gasoline is hygroscopic (will absorb water) and can absorb 50 times more water than conventional non-alcohol gasoline. - Phase separation occurs in E10 gas, when only 0.5% water or 3.8 teaspoons water per gallon of fuel is absorbed. The "fuel" also is less volatile than conventional gasoline. The "fuel" has a net negative life energy cycle (i.e. requires greater total energy to produce/deliver than is released in final conversion process). The product is destructive to conventional seal materials .... The product is a poor pseudo-copy of a product produced in other geographic regions from indigenous perennial growth.

FYI: http://www.chemicalforums.com/index.php?topic=56636.0

 

Since conventional non-alcohol gasoline is hydrocarbon in nature, it would be quite hydrophobic (hates water - won't absorb it), so 50 times 0 would be zero, or 0.5% divided by 50 would be 0.01%. I always thought a fuel absorbing water was a good thing since it carries the water to the combustion system and gets rid of it through steam formation.