Coins you would never buy raw without authentication?

Will do

 

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ok, I'll admit it, what is the BST SECTION or where is it located? I've been on this site for months but I'm pretty new or have gotten serious about coin collecting only this past year before I just collected information about coins, foreign, American, new, old, compositions etc. I talk to much

 

https://www.cointalk.com/forums/for-sale/

 

Anything valuable

 

Considering how many fake PCGS holder 1893-s and 1889-cc Morgans I need thoes coins to be double and triple authenticated to buy them.

 

I agree, with the 8 reales even the real ones look fake

 

Have you ever heard of a counterfeit 1864-S $10?

 

There is nothing I won't buy raw. There are circumstances under which I won't purchase at all, but this hobby is about knowledge. That means knowing how to authenticate a coin as much as knowing how to authenticate a buyer.

If I but something that turns out to be counterfeit, it's immaterial because I'll have bought it from a seller who would willingly take it back. And it would likely be a good enough counterfeit to contemplate keeping anyway.

 

The one that comes to mind right off the bat is of course, the Trade Dollar...there are just too many fakes out there.

 

This one, which I won - and paid to have authenticated after I couldn't find it, but the "coin expert" they claim they are said the mint mark is there. Cost me express grading fees at ANACS, and I'm livid. And I partially blame myself for not just sending it back and calling it bunk before grading.

1911-D Quarter Eagle which is a rare date. It was a risk, and I knew better, but I've been trying to complete my Quarter Eagle collection, and this was just the low cost "details" coin I was looking for.

I did return it, but the grading fees I'm out leave me feeling bitter about the whole thing after trying to believe him.



Fuzzy pictures and no indication of the D mint mark.

For the record - you might want to add this seller to your list of scammers to avoid on ebay.

robscoins87

www.ebay.com/itm/122100916740

 

1916 D Din=mes and 1909 S VDB's come to mind but it depends on the circumstances for the S-VDB. I can catch most of the bad ones. The 16 D is another story especially in AG.

 

I am new to cointalk so if I am not replying correctly forgive me . I only buy "high end" raw coins from one source on line I trust and one local dealer I trust . The local dealer is a older gentleman that has been in business since the 1950's , with that said he keeps a 1899 Black Eagle in his show case it is counterfeit and he bought before taking it out of the sleeve . Caveat emptor

 

1893 S and 1994 Morgan

 

Only certified coins will I purchase.. I DO Prefer NGC 2ND CHOICE WOULD BE PCGS.

 

NGC: Not encapsulated , questionable authenticity. Sigh...

 

I'll go with only buying slabbed CCs period.

Thanks for the heads up.

 

When 3rd party grading first began to make waves, I decided to get any coin certified for which I paid $50 or more. Now I want to have all my coins in reputable slabs (i.e., ANACS, NGC, PCGS). The main reason is to make sure that my heirs, who are neither sophisticated about numismatic material nor interested in becoming so, won't have a lot of difficulty selling my coins if they decide to do so. I also have provided my spouse with the name of a reputable dealer to approach and the names of disreputable dealers to avoid.

 

Basically my philosophy. Unless we get a heads up on our pending demise, which I doubt any of us really want, we won't be there to protect them.

 

NGC: Not encapsulated , questionable authenticity. Sigh...

The pictures are scanned and I played a bit with the colors. The coin is
shiny silver.

 

The 16-D Mercury Dime and the 1877 Indian Head Cent, as well as the 1911-D Gold Indian are coins that I would always hesitate to buy raw.

and I would never recommend that anyone buy a 1916-D Mercury Dime raw. Even experts can have a difficult time authenticating them.