Recently I have been doing some studying on lowball coin collecting. I will admit that I have some of these coins, but I collect them when they are worn enough to be quite cheap. However, their prices raise a lot of questions. First is a 1935 Peace dollar on eBay that is likely Poor or Fair. The price is $59.90, and it is a silver dollar that I'd sell for $22. Second is a graded ICG P1 Peace dollar without a date. First, I have no idea why on Earth ICG, A reputable coin grading company, would slab something possessing no date with a grade. Furthermore, the price is $199. A Morgan dollar with the same characteristics is $249. In my opinion, when a coin has no date, it should be considered a problem coin when grading. This is because it's so worn that it's simply ungradable. I know that ICG, along with ANACS, are much better at grading problem coins accurately than the top 2, but it should've been stabbed simply as "genuine". A coin with a date would have to go through a ton to be considered a real PO-1 coin. Are there people really willing to pay these prices for such worn coins? I get the logic of affordability but sometimes it gets out of hand. Search "lowball coin" on eBay and you'll see what I'm talking about.
I like "circulated" coins, but I can't understand people collecting lowball "slugs". It might be acceptable for say a 93s morgan, 16d merc or some other rareity that you might never afford in better condition.. I'd much rather (and do in several cases) own a "detail" coin of high enough grade to at least show some nice details.. as i mentioned.. slugs don't interest me
I have nothing bad to say about what others decide to collect. It's not my place and I don't care what others think about what I collect.
I honestly don't know either. I get that it's affordable, but landing the wrong dealer will mean it gets way out of hand. I mean, who would want a poor coin for the same price as a MS? I do believe, though, that we could potentially see the benefits of lowball collecting as dealers. As a coin dealer myself, I've searched through half dollars and once saw a 1972 AG Kennedy. I was like "how can this get that much wear?", but never did I think I should've kept it before I learned about the lowball market.
Same with me. I'm one that really don't care what others collect, but I do like when they have some good stuff. I mean, at least you can sell some things for a small premium, like SBA dollars at a flea market. I once got a 1979 proof for $2 (likely type 1). Some could sell uncirculated coins for a small markup, but some simply overdo it. I know two flea markets where the price difference is insane. A pack of 8 uncirculated earlier clad dimes is $4, while another dealer has them for $6 each, along with a PDS steel penny set (very bad quality for $30). But, if that's what people want to collect, I will not be the judge.
I thought the Big Two (and maybe ANACS) would not slab a coin where they couldn't be sure of the date AND mint. Anyone will slab a genuine 1916 SLQ, because there are other markers clearly identifiable on a dateless specimen. But I don't think the Big Two would slab either of those ICG examples. And I'm not sure they'd slab that 1935, because I don't think you can tell whether it's P or S. Edit to add the requested opinion: I don't like lowball competition, because I don't like the idea that you can improve a coin's standing by further impairing its condition. I'm convinced that people are intentionally wearing down coins to compete, and that TPGs can't (or won't) distinguish well-done "Artificial Wear" from "Natural Wear". This hobby/business should be about preservation. No monkeying!
ICG fills a need for collectors. As far as I know they are the only one that will slab counterfeits. It takes away any question about what the coin is. Someday I will have them slab my collection of counterfeits. I don't know their standard for P1 coins. It's also possible the grader was able to see something we cant from just an image.
All coins tell a story. If you don't want yours, I'll take them. I enjoy doing background work on coins and notes. I'll laugh all the way to the bank, it's silver you know!
I have a pocket piece that is barely discernible as a Peace Dollar. I've posted the photos before . . .
At best IMO they are junk box coins somebody would blowout at melt. Just dont see anything in them. Can’t even read the dates so not even keychain material. My advice - buy affordable attractive lustrous material that is MS64 or higher. I understand they may be a fad like the ugly badly tarnished toner crowd stuff.
I would think it unlikely to find a 16D mercury in P-01 unless the grade were given for damage more than wear. In AG the D is hard to see, and anything below that it would likely disappear. But your point is well taken, and I'd never prefer a P-01 over anything higher unless it was the only one I could afford of a coin I really wanted.
Yes, and therein lies the market for them at sometimes stupid (In my opinion) prices. As a friend of my father said when he was told that people eat rattlesnake meat, "They needn't fix none for me."
I've seen where they graded 2 Henning nickels labeled as counterfeit, but I had no idea that they slab other counterfeits. Thanks for telling me, as any counterfeits of mine would go to ICG! That'd be known as only the second Poor 0 coin ever graded. If you are assembling a dateless problem-free set, this'd be perfect! I actually have a 1922 MS64 Peace dollar, and it is quite a beauty. After putting roughly $55 in it, I am now confident that I would sell lowball Peace bucks for very little over melt.
This lowball collecting thing, I'd never heard about it before. I just googled it. Crazy! You learn something new every day. The TPGs have a niche for Shallow Hal!
Depends on your purpose. I don't mind some of these to fill spaces in my "I want every year" collections. But, for me, I love the designs. So, I want the designs to look as nice as I can afford. If I can't see the design on the coin, like some that you posted, I don't get the joy from them. At that point they are just metals and I refuse to collect coins based on metal values
People just have more money then sense.Large cents this low without a date are an exception though since they can be attributed even with as little details as possible. The difference between a PO-1 and good can be thousands.But me personally the coin at least needs to have a visible date if it's supposed to but depending on the coin I'll let a few slip.