Not JUST Another "cleaning" Thread

I'd like to preface by saying I searched and read through multiple different threads (at least 5, all the way through) in our forums about cleaning (recommendations, dos and don'ts, product suggestions), etc. And, I am left with a couple of questions I'm hoping to get cleared up, please.

• Acetone: Some have said this is GREAT to use to clean (non-copper) coins. But, others have said this damages/color changes (non-copper) coins. Explain, please?

• EZ-est or MS-70: Which is better and why?

• Copper Coins: Is just plain distilled water the best cleaner? Or, is there something else that can remove the "dark/almost black" or is THAT the patina I don't want to remove? Then, what is something easy I can buy to use?
  
  Admittedly, I don't really "chemistry" so good :/
  

Thank you!!​

 

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@BadThad

 

1st I'll say I never recommend any type of "cleaning" of coins... Minor conservation that leaves no mark or chemical trace is another story even that I don't recommend anyone attempt it on any coin of real value, leave that to the experts at the TPGs if the coin is worth the cost of the process

I strongly suggest you forget about EZ-est and MS-70, they destroy more coins then they help.
As for the acetone dipping will often remove or destroy any natural "toning" on silver as well as any patina it has developed.. over dipping will cause a coin to become flat and grey. add to this the stench and flammability of acetone, I tend to avoid it and use xylene instead. It smells much better and i think better to remove pvc but still very flammable.
Last copper.. here it depends on what your trying to clean.. for an older green (verdigris) coin Verdi-care can work very well, even if I don't always use it "as directed" For Nice/expensive copper, distilled water and maybe a coat of verdi-care are really about it with further damage to the coin.

 

@green18 I saw verdi-care... But, it looked a bit complicated for me and seems like it is better for getting "dirt" and that 'green' stuff off coppers. Maybe that is the better product but earlier it didn't seem like it.

 

@mrweaseluv Appreciate the thoughts!

What is "Xylene?" - I saw that in the threads as well.

Also, in terms of the copper coins I'd like to clean:

• wheat leafs that are just filling the book. They are so dark that they are difficult to see/read easily. Would be nice if they were shiny But, copper cleaner makes the coins look so fake :/ And, I have a collection of 1860-1969 British pennies, most of which are dark as well.

 

Like 'weasle' says above, I don't recommend cleaning coins, and my experience with such relates only with acetone and silver coins. Other than that I leave others to exacerbate ruin.......

 

I recommend NOT cleaning your coins UNLESS they're already pretty much gone ( ground finds, PMD coins etc.). JMO based on experience.

 

It is a paint solvent.

 

The best way to handle coin cleaning is to let someone buy them, screw them up, and take the loss.

Rinsing coins is not what I consider cleaning coins. But if you rinse coins with used acetone you may very well have problems.

I have been rinsing coins and exo (including Lincolns and brass tokens) with acetone ever since they banned Dissolve sometime in the 80's. I have never had a problem. Older copper, I don't know about. I never owned any copper coins except Lincolns and one IHC.

I don't like the idea of not knowing if some Bwain Twust just knocked off a bucket of chicken before filling my order. I rinse everything and I don't care if it's called cleaning.

I never understood using distilled water on copper. Maybe it goes back to trying the simplest method first? The problem is, water is probably what cause the verdigris in the first place.

 

Having reviewed the evidence, the OP is incorrect.

It is "...JUST Another "cleaning" Thread".

 

Paint stripper. In the old days, drove many a house-painter punchy.

 

The key is trying to understand the chemistry of it all at least at a basic level. That being said, Acetone is safe to use. There's a single questionable study that was done under harsh conditions claiming that it turned copper pink. I've not had that experience, nor have I see it mentioned elsewhere (with proof).

Using a proper method will give you the best results but acetone can't hurt the metal surface of your coin despite what some people incorrectly think.

I've met a few of them myself

 

This is where people have issues I think, you need to keep a clean final rinse. I use the 3 step method, after a while step 3 becomes step 2, step 2 becomes step 1, and step 1 gets tossed onto my concrete walkway to evaporate

I pretty much follow this same practice with any coins I get from other people, out of circulation, etc. If it's from the mint or some other place where I can be reasonably assured it's a "clean" specimen I won't bother.

Distilled water, Acetone, Xylene - 3 well known safe things to use on coins all are capable of removing/loosening different things. This is where the chemistry part comes in, and while I understand the basics of it, I don't know it well enough to go into detail. I'll leave that for the experts.

One last note is that I personally do not use distilled water as a final rinse. Others will contest that and say to rinse and pat dry. IMO that's risky and unnecessary especially in my case as I don't use xylene which evaporates more slowly than acetone.

I don't use it simply because I haven't really had the need and I prefer not to handle it if I can help it. Distilled water first (if necessary), then acetone in a 3 step process, air dry (happens quickly) and then into a holder it goes.

 

Several years back a young lady inherited a jar of common and worn Mercury dimes from her grandfather who happened to be a heavy smoker. She simply wanted to wash the tobacco residue from her inheritance with dish soap and man, she was given an earful..... There is no way to have a "cleaning coins" thread without raising some ire here. It is a passionate subject.... Frankly, my feel is you can do whatever you wish with what belongs to you. That said, I been collecting since the 1960's and have never cleaned or altered any coin for fear of creating unintentional damage. We are after all, mere custodians to these little gems..... Just know you will get as many different views here as there are members and approach any level of conservation that you may choose with the upmost caution.

 

WARNING - DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO ANYTHING LISTED BELOW.
YOU WILL RUIN YOUR COINS. I HAVE GONE THROUGH TRIAL AND ERROR FOR MORE THAN A YEAR BEFORE I GOT GOOD RESULTS.

I have come across many a large cent with heavy raised corrosion, I have created a method to remove this. My friend who is a chemist helped me with formulating a strong chemical that eats away at the impurities on copper, but does not affect the copper itself. This chemical dissolves all of the dirt and any corrosion on the coin. Because the early dates (1793-1814) are made of almost 100% pure copper the chemical does not eat into the surfaces, aside from the top oxidised layer containing impurities. After the chemical has been applied and removed I am left with an even mat pink coin, the areas where corrosion once was are now clean and the same color as other parts of the piece. Then I go through the 6 month process of NATURALLY retoning the coin. During the retoneing stage it is crucial to rub the piece occasionally to get contrast from high to low points. This simulates the way a coin would naturally tone. After retoning is finished and the coin has a good circulated contrast I brush the piece with blue ribbon. The result is a natural even light to dark brown piece, matching perfectly with other original coins in my collection. I have had good results with this method, and even had a piece straight grade with NGC. I will post some before and after pictures when I get home.

I personally consider this to be conservation, as these coins are on track to deteriorate into nothing if the corrosion is not stopped.

 

It's like going on any motorcycle or automotive forum and asking "what kind of oil should I run?" Oh boy, Pandora's box is open now. lol

 

What you are doing is nothing new.

The difference though, is your description of the practice as conservation.

I do not subscribe to that description of your activity.

Coin Doctors have been using proteolytic enzymes of various formulas since I was a youngster.

There is a reason such practices are known as Coin Doctoring.

Your Story is a wonderful example of the reason for CAC.

So, post the piece that is in an NGC Holder.....Frankly, I call Baloney.

 

I guess I didn't mean to ask "which is best" - I meant more to ask "what does x do and what does y do (specifically)"

 

FTR, my commentary is directed to the Post by Coins4Eli.

 

Distilled water removes SOME things, Acetone removes SOME things, and Xylene removes SOME things. Although from what I understand the list for Xylene uses is pretty small, part of why I haven't tried it.

Acetone is great for removing tape residue, pvc residue, FRESH fingerprints, and some other organic "schmootz".

I can't speak to the dipping chemicals because I haven't nor do I ever plan to try using them. They have thier place I suppose, but better left to the pros that have much practice with it.

Also there's an incredibly informative thread here about the chemistry of acetone, xylene, etc etc. I can't seem to find it quickly though. You might try searching around, look for posts with input from badthad or desertgem as I'm pretty sure they provided input.