Dipping MS and Proof coins

The only difference between Proof and Business Strike surfaces is preparation and care. An overdipped Proof will look just like an overdipped Business Strike - it'll eat the mirrors right off one.

 

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Are you sure of that? What do you think the coin looks like with the mirrors eaten away?

 

Um, yes, I'm sure. The more careful strike process does not change the planchet, and a DMPL Business Strike is very little different from a Proof. We're only talking a couple thousandths deep on the surface, and dip eats both away equally.

 

Actually, when this experiment was done decades ago, for a very long time we could still EASILY tell the coin was struck as a proof - until we finally got uninterested I've looked for my notes on that project in order to pin down some time periods/changes with no luck so far. I do not wish to say any more now , so I don't spread misinformation.

However, I'm happy to inform you that after a conversation w/conservation people a few weeks ago when I referenced my original test; I started another one. At this time, I have had a proof CLAD dime soaking for several weeks. The first change was the surface darkened and the copper edge is being attacked. I'll post some photos when I notice more changes. BTW, my original test was done with a Silver Kennedy Proof.

 

What kind and strength dip are you using . It just seems to me after an hour , undiluted e-Zest would eat through at least .100" at least . Though to be sure I should find an old silver dime proof and test it . As so far it's just my opinion .

 

Didn't do much at all.

 

I feel obligated to back Doug up on most of his points here because most of the time I'm fussing at him He doesn't need verification - I'm writing this to make me feel better.

Question: What do you dilute your dip with besides some type of water?

Different metals and the amount of oxidation react differently to dips.

 

@Insider , Well I have some undiluted E-Zest sitting around . Tell me what type of coin you used so I can duplicate your experiment .

 

Cool, experiments are good as long as nothing gets blown up!
You can purchase BU and Proof coins for under $5 each at coin shows.

Cover a small 90% silver coin in a small glass container with dip. Cover the container. You can do this with anything (clad coin, copper coin, proof coin, nickel coin) BUT use separate containers for each. Start out with a coin with "perfect, original surfaces" - they can have bag marks. Put in sunny window if you wish to speed up the reactions. Have fun!

You can even try this with 50% dilute dip to see the difference. KEEP NOTES.

 

Still waiting for an answer...What do you/or the people who have told you they do this, dilute commercial dips with besides various types of water?

 

IMO based on lots of experience, MS-70 will only turn some Cu coins blue especially in combination w/acetone. Blue copper can EASILY be returned to normal color when you know how to do it. I've seen it done many, many times.

 

IMO, MS-70 is a wonderful product to use on copper. You need to examine the coin carefully as on occasion, a spot on a BROWN or RB coin will turn RED

 

THEY DO: "NCS and other entities at TPGS's will CONSERVE your coins for a fee." Now go find out what the term CONSERVATION entails as used by numismatists.

 

GOLD STAR AWARD. Best advice on this thread so far.

 

Whoa, we are on a roll here. ANOTHER GOLD STAR!

 

The MS-70 works best when used ultrasonically and heated.

NOTE: Professionals evaluate a coin BERORE TOUCHING IT W/ANYTHING. It's best to leave the natural film (skin) that develops on a coin if it has been improperly cleaned. Otherwise as you have seen/said by experiment, the coin will not look as good.

 

Unless you know what you are doing. We cannot compare the average collector/dealer to FOR EXAMPLE a coin doctor, experienced and knowledgeable dealer or chemist, or the guys in the NCS lab who "dip" (conserve) hundreds of coins a week with various chemicals.

 

What?

 

And did the article tell you how many dips it takes to dull the coin's surface enough that the average collector/dealer (WHO CANNOT TELL A COIN IS NOT ORIGINAL even if you ruined it while he was watching) would detect it?