Picked these up as well for $30 ea with the peace dollars and got to vamming The 80o 13a seems like a good one as an Anacs au50 sold on ebay for $160 recently. It has a bit of hard green crust next to the neck. I tried acetone for about 2 hours and it lighted it up a bit but not much. I currently have it soaking and I'll check it in 24hrs to see if it's touching it at all. I wonder if @BadThad would recommend verdicare for the spot? Any suggestions? If I can get it into a righteous unc slab, even at ms60, I'm thinking it may be a great score. Is there decent value on the 13a even at unc details?@messydesk @SuperDave? Next is the 1880p vam 18a which I bought for the nice rim color. I can't find any sold or being offered. Any premium on this one in unc? Thanks for any input guys
They are mylar flips that I use. He bought them as part of an album lot from a widow while I was there. I acetone bathe almost all raw unc coins I get for finger oils and what not. I thought pvc when I first saw it too but, as it wasn't coming off in the acetone, I slid my thumbnail over it and it's hard like mineral deposits on a faucet. I've heard that the copper in morgans can cause verdigris but I haven't run across it yet. That's why I'm thinking verdicare might do the trick but I don't have any. It's soaking in a acetone in a sealed baby food jar right now and I'll check it in the morning to see if it did anything.
If you can remove a Morgan from a jewelry bezel and get it in a righteous MS slab surely this is child's play. That 1880-O is pretty cool VAM with that Frankenstein zero in the date and a broken branch mm to boot.
Yes, Verdi-Care is appropriate for verdigris on silver alloy coins, too. Sounds like your evaluation is correct. I'm thinking 13a to be a "situational value," capable of bringing a premium in front of the right people but unlikely otherwise. It has a lot going on, but isn't a List coin. ANACS has none in their Population in Mint State although PCGS appears to (they don't attribute it).
Well then looks like a bottle of verdicare will be purchased today below is a full 24hrs acetone soak and I think that it again did a little good but only marginally. And that's what I figured about "situational" value. Or that it was a fluke sale. Maybe I'll send this one to anacs for pop reasons if the verdicare helps.
Stick with the acetone for the moment. The next time I have to leave a coin in acetone for a full week won't be the first.
Wow, you think a full week could do the trick? I see the green getting better but the white substrate looks untouched. I've honestly never used acetone at such length before but let's give it a try ... hopefully the rubber seal on the baby food lid dosent rupture or melt though
All I'm thinking is, you're getting *some* results from it. Might as well push it to the limit, according to the rule of always being least-intrusive.
Well I'm not sure if the week long soak helped much dave. What's left is hard like mineralization to the extent that a qtip or gentle toothpick ticking is doing nothing. Think I'm gonna try verdicare next, whatcha think? Would like @BadThad to chime in too if he's around
Not sure what the smudge is, but it does look improved over the first picture. The 80-O VAM 13A is not ultra-common, and has a strong enough clash where someone looking for nice clashed dies would pay a premium for it, as you saw with the eBay sale. There's just not a huge number of those people.
I thought the clashes had something to do with the interest messy. Actually the reason I bought it was what I thought could be a retained cud at the lower left stars as I didn't have my loupe. It goes from the denticles under the 2nd star to the denticles under the 4th star but doesn't jump up to the rims. (It shows best in the third pic down of my last post) Is there a later state with a more defined retained or even a full cud?
I would call this just a die crack -- nothing special. Once in a while, these develop into retained cuds or full cuds, but since I don't know of a later die stage of this being listed with a die break, I assume this never got much beyond the die crack stage.
Looks like PVC damage, you removed the residue but the cupric chloride has formed and locked onto the surface. VC may remove the verdigris but the surface appears to have been etched by the HCl from the PVC.
Aren't silver and copper pretty much unaffected by HCl? What's the chemistry behind it? The endstage damage is unmistakable, so somebody had to be eating metal for breakfast.
